travel

'I just spent five days in Seminyak — here's everything you need to know before you go.'

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Unlike most of Australia, I've never been a 'Bali is always a good idea' girl — but after spending five days dining, pampering and shopping in Seminyak I'm now addicted to the Island of the Gods. I have the Bali bug (no, not the belly one) and I'm already planning my next trip so I can do it all again. 

While Seminyak is not your cultural Bali experience, it's the perfect choice for a relaxing break to lie in the sun, dine out at fabulous restaurants, listen to live music and watch the sun sink over the Indian Ocean in a trail of dazzling colour.

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There's great shopping — from clothing to homewares and bargains at Bintang supermarket — and if you're keen for self-care and beauty treatments then you're in the right place.  Seminyak has everything you need for the ideal flop and drop holiday — and some bloody good coffee, too. 

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When I knew I was visiting, I crowdsourced recommendations from Facebook, and I went to as many as I could (in the name of research/gluttony). Thank you to all the Bali addicts who sent me their favourites, which are now mine, too — and are about to be yours as well. 

The basics of travelling to Seminyak

  • Australians need a visa for Bali ($50 AUD) and it's easier to do it online than queue on arrival. You will also need to pay a Tourism Levy ($15 AUD) and fill in a customs and health declaration. It can be a bit time consuming, but you'll thank yourself for doing it before you leave. Find out more at Smart Traveller.

  • Some stores are cash only, so bring money with you or withdraw at ATMs. You can find them at the airport and in supermarkets like Coco, and can withdraw up to $250 at a time. 

  • The currency is Indonesian Rupiah (IDR) and around 100,000 IDR is equal to $10 AUD.

  • Download the Grab and GoJek apps and use them to book car and bike rides — but always wear a helmet and check that your travel insurance covers you. You can order food, laundry pick up and basically anything you need on both apps — it's amazing.

  • Bali belly is a thing so take precautions, like brushing teeth with bottled water or taking a preventative like Travelan.

  • Everyone makes fun of Bali bogans, but I have to say, the Aussies holidaying in Bali are some of the nicest people you'll ever meet. Everyone is so friendly and kind. It's a nice place to be. 

  • Tipping is a very kind way to thank local staff who work really hard. Remember, that the price of a coffee for you can often feed a family.

Getting around in Seminyak.

Getting around Seminyak is super simple. Use your feet, a Grab or GoJek car or bike (make sure your insurance covers you for this) or a Bluebird taxi but make sure they put the metre on. We just loved jumping on the back of the Grab bikes — they have helmets for passengers so make sure to ask for one and put it on before you ride. If you're like me, your menopausal hips will get a workout straddling the bike and it will be the biggest thrill of your life right now. I loved it. 

Where to stay in Seminyak.

Seminyak has accommodation for everyone, whether it's a budget stay, a fancy hotel or a private villa. Our villa was in a fabulous location on Gang Sri Darma opposite Seminyak Gallery but, unfortunately, we had a few issues — annoying for $400 a night. Villas are fun when you have a big group and if you can find one around this location, it's perfect and central to everything. 

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The budget Motel Molly was in our street and is only $63 a night for cute little rooms with light-filled courtyards — a great choice if you're here to beach, beach club, dine and explore. 

If you're keen on a hotel, just back from the beachfront, the boutique Colony Hotel Bali is gorgeous in the black and white Sarkies Brothers colonial aesthetic (Raffles, Eastern and Oriental) for $250 a night including breakfast and the beachfront Seminyak Beach Resort with its dazzling pool overlooking the ocean will set you back $270 a night.

Image: Supplied.

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Where to eat in Seminyak.

You are spoiled for choice in Seminyak with an abundance of cool cafés serving up delicious coffee, breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner with some even turning into bars at night time… or if you don't feel like leaving your villa or room, you can just GoJek it! 

There's Aussie standard coffee and sunset bars and restaurants, live music and always fabulous service — I'm not sure I've been anywhere that is this exceptional (and I tipped accordingly, as we should). It's impossible to get to all of these incredible restaurants, but give it a shot! 

Each morning I would slip out our villa door and wander to Revolver for my coffee fix. Breakfast here is also amazing — we loved the truffle mushroom hash with a poached egg (100,000 IDR/$10 AUD), and the smashed avo and poached eggs on sourdough (90,000 IDR/$9 AUD). I would stop at Baked for pain au chocolate (35,000 IDR /3.50AUD) and croissants on the way back to the villa.

Sisterfields is popular for breakfast and lunch and just down the road is an old favourite, Sea Circus, with its colourful décor. Try Kynd Café for plant-based meals and drinks and artisanal bakery, Bread Yard for pastries, coffee and kombucha. We had an incredible burger at Bossman. 

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We bolted to Santorini Greek Restaurant in Seminyak on our first day in town. It's one of our favourites — we met the owner Lia when we came back to Bali just after the borders opened and she'd spent lockdown making sure her staff and their families were looked after. Lia's mum still cooks for the restaurants they have in Kuta, Sanur and Canggu, and they've just opened a hotel on Gili Air.

It's a female success story I love. We gorged on hummus and feta dips, baked lamb, Greek salad and moussaka and finished with loukoumades — Greek donuts served with ice cream.  

Biku Indonesian Restaurant is highly recommended for high tea and palm readings, and Motel Mexicola, Ultimo Italian restaurant, Café Bali, Asparagus, Mama San and Ginger Moon Canteen are favourites for lunch and dinner. Sumak Turkish restaurant was always busy and I really wanted to try the Japanese Italian fusion at Buzo Bali (kids under eight eat free!) but we didn't make it, so it's on the list for next time. 

We loved supporting the local warungs and Wakul Nasi Resto just down the road from our villa was so much fun. The nasi goreng and satay were awesome and the vibe was even better with families gathering on the lawn and at tables around a small stage where Tommy the guitarist invited guests to sing with him (of course we did). 

Bali beach sunsets are special, so head to La Plancha, with its colourful umbrellas and beanbags, Potato Head — one of the OG beach clubs — or Kudeta for sunset drinks. You can also spend days here and at other popular beach clubs like Mrs Sippy, with its lagoon pool and huge diving platform (note that it's not on the beach), Mari Beach Club and the beautiful, understated Mano House right next to La Lucciola.  We are not beach club people, but so many people love them and these are recommended — most have family days, guest DJs and party nights; just check their websites and book in advance.

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Sunset dining is a highlight of Seminyak life and we returned to a restaurant I was last at 25 years ago, the iconic La Lucciola on the beach right next to the 15th-century Petitenget Temple. We waited for our table at the bar and watched the sun set over the palm trees and ocean while sipping a cocktail, before inhaling spaghetti al pomodorini with fresh burrata and lamb ragu.

Chez Gado Gado is another beautiful beachfront spot with cosy chairs and tables overlooking the ocean, live music and gorgeous sunset views. We devoured the tapas, and I ordered a two-for-one cocktail, but I only felt like one, so I donated my second cocktail to a mum at the table next to me — I will do this more often!

Mello Spa Bali RestaurantImage: Supplied.

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Pampering and self-care in Seminyak.

Seminyak is the place for pampering and I came home with a lash lift when I didn't even know what one was before I arrived in town.  Book in at Lash Brat on Jalan Kayu Aya and for $45 AUD (450,000 IDR); you can have lifted, curled-up lashes that are all yours but look like you have just invested in new ones. 

Just next door to Lash Brat is the stunning Mello Spa Bali — calm, sophisticated and with fabulous professional treatments. The lymphatic massage was easily the best massage I've ever had ($65 AUD) and my skin was plump and glowing like never before after the hydrating reset facial with ice globes rubbed over my face! This is top of my list when I go back!

Mello supports the Bali Mother and Baby House, and it's where I first saw Indonesian artist RizRizRizz's paintings, and I ended up buying two prints from the owner of The Medium gallery (located in Canggu), Rob Manning, who I spoke to in Java on WhatsApp. He was close with Brett Whiteley and we chatted about Self Portrait in the Studio and 15 Great Dog Pisses in Paris and other Whiteley works which seems like a completely normal conversation to fall into while you're in Bali. Two massive prints ($900 AUD each) arrived at the villa the following day and are now being framed.

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If you're planning to visit the Instagrammers' favourite spa, Bodyworks, make sure to book in the morning because in the afternoon it is very crowded. Even so, the stunning Moroccan-inspired interiors provide a gorgeous backdrop. You'll just have to wait a little longer to get your photos.  

Spring Spa Seminyak was recommended by many. A 60-minute massage will set you back $30 AUD and my new addiction, lymphatic massage, for $65 AUD. There are so many spas around and you can get massages and Mani-Pedis in street spas on the beachfront for around 100,000 IDR ($10 AUD). 

We had our hair done at Dhio's Salon Seminyak, although the feedback on Facebook accused us of committing a crime by paying AUSTRALIAN PRICES! I don't think we did ($260 for a full head of foils, a cut, protein treatment and blow-dry) but even so, the colour is fabulous and is much lighter than any Australian salon would risk giving us. There are no haircare rules in Bali. 

Alkemy Salon Bali is the place to go for keratin straightening and colour, and had the purple toner tint not faded from some of Em's hair we would have gone here for a correction. It's an Aussie-owned salon and highly recommended.  

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bali-hair-salonImage: Supplied.

Shopping in Seminyak.

Kim Soo is a gorgeous homewares store, down near Lash Brat, Mello and the Colony Hotel, although when you see something you like, shop around because its prices are definitely at the higher end. Make sure to visit Mecredi and Kabann Living; you'll find so many treasures strolling the Seminyak shops.

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We had intended to shop for clothes, but we didn't end up finding anything — not that there wasn't a lot on offer. There are boutiques everywhere and so many stores selling jewellery, handbags and shoes. Just wander the streets and explore, you never know what you'll find.

Make sure to hit Bintang supermarket for cheap skincare, haircare, Soffell mosquito spray and the Kisspray laundry scent that everyone loves. You'll find so much here and it's an adventure exploring the aisles and picking up cheap hair oil and other bits and bobs to take home and try. 

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Be sure to visit Waterbom Bali.

While it's just out of the Seminyak precinct, no trip to Bali is complete without a visit to Waterbom and its slides and lazy river! It's perfect for families, girls trips, couples and really no one has an excuse to not visit. It's a tropical paradise and a fabulous addition to any trip to Bali. 

Seminyak is chockers with restaurants, bars and activities and if I've missed your favourite I'd love to know so I can add it to the list for next time! You can find me at @mumpacktravel and, probably, back in Seminyak.

Evie organises and hosts group trips for women to fabulous destinations all over Asia. Find out more at www.mumpacktrips.com

Feature Image: Supplied.

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