travel

'I'm a travel writer and this US city blew away all my expectations.'

I've wanted to visit the USA for years.

I did go on a trip with my parents when I was five, but that hardly counts. I barely remember a thing (except being bitten by fire ants in Texas — you don't forget something like that in a hurry).

Lucky for me, I got the chance to head Stateside recently (minus the bitey ants), and as part of my travels, I spent two days in San Francisco, California.

And let me tell you, if you've never been, this city needs to go on your hit list.

Between some of the most outrageously delicious meals I've ever eaten, cocktails with a view, and a touch of touristy magic, I managed to squeeze a whole lot into 48 hours.

Watch: What do with with 48 hours in San Francisco. Post continues below.


Video via TikTok/@alixcn

Here's everything you need to know about where to stay, eat, and explore in the Golden City.

Where to stay in San Francisco.

There are plenty of great places to stay in San Fran, but if you want to be smack-bang in the centre of everything — and you love old-school charm and luxury — the Beacon Grand is absolutely iconic.

It's the kind of place that feels both historic (because it… is) and modern, with a bit of a Great Gatsby vibe. My wood-panelled room was cosy and elegant, the staff were lovely, and honestly, the lobby alone is worth a visit — soaring ceilings, chandeliers, the works.

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Beacon Grand Hotel San Francisco exterior and interiorThe Beacon Grand is boujie and beautiful. Image: Alix Nicholson.

Bonus: it's right near Union Square, so you're perfectly positioned to hop between shops (which I did), hit local restaurants (which I… also did, more on that in a sec), and find your way around the city.

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Where to eat in San Francisco.

Let me be so very clear: I did not go hungry in San Francisco. Not for a second.

I arrived in the early evening, tummy rumbling, and desperate for some American diner-style food. So, after checking in, and on the suggestion of the Beacon Grand staff, I wandered down to Pinecrest Diner — an old-school, no-frills spot where I perched at the counter and promptly stuffed myself full of the kind of Southern fried chicken I've only dreamed about.

Sticking with the all-American vibes the next morning, I helped myself to ricotta pancakes and a side of crispy bacon at Beacon Grand's restaurant, The Post Room.

The lush space is a seamless continuation of the hotel's grand foyer, sat on a mezzanine overlooking the room below. Highly recommend for a tasty brekkie in a fancy space.

pancakes topped with whipped cream and bacon; plate of friend chicken, fries and vegetablesPancakes at The Post Room, and fried chicken with chilli fries at Pinecrest Diner. Image: Alix Nicholson.

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Bistro Le Marais in The Castro was on my to-do list for lunch. It's a charming French patisserie where everything looked — and smelled — incredible. But by the time I arrived, they were completely out of croissants (cue me gently sobbing on the sidewalk).

I did have a tasty little croque monsieur, but word to the wise: get there early if the pastries are what you really crave.

Speaking of pastries and little treats, Miller & Lux Provisions in Union Square is about a 60-second walk from the hotel. I grabbed a kouign amann on a whim and I haven't stopped thinking about it since. Buttery, flaky pastry, loaded up with butter and sugar, baked until it caramelised… ooft, did it just get hot in here?

(They made a good cup of coffee too; very important to note.)

Also in the sweet treat category: Hot Cookie in The Castro. I grabbed a bag of small biscuits on my way into the district, and they were the perfect walking-around snack.

This spot's also famous for their 'spicy' cookies, and no, I'm not talking about flavour 🍆.

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But let's talk about dinner, because I have never, ever eaten a meal as phenomenal as the night I went to Collina.

Nestled in Nob Hill, it's the cosy little sister to the famous Seven Hills, and offers a seasonal Italian menu crafted from ingredients handpicked from local farmers' market.

Four Italian dishes served at Collina restaurant San Francisco.Heirloom tomato salad; della fattoria toast with figs, tallegio cheese and honey; raviolo al uovo; and butterscotch budino for dessert. I died. Image: Alix Nicholson.

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It's cosy and intimate, complete with bay windows overlooking the cable car line — I could've cried, the food was so good. I almost did weep that I didn't have room to finish every mouthful on each plate that was brought to me. I would go back to San Fran just to eat here again.

For an afternoon espresso martini and a snack, I took the elevator at Beacon Grand to the top floor Starlite bar. The views alone are worth a visit, but if you're there, you might as well try the hot fried chicken buns. Can confirm: they are a spicy, crunchy, pillowy revelation.

Oh, and a meal at Scoma's is a non-negotiable if you're in the city by the bay. It's an institution for a reason, serving up fresh seafood right on the water.

sign for Scoma's restaurant in San Francisco.Phenom gulf shrimp lumachini at Scoma's in San Francisco. Image: Alix Nicholson.

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Go hungry, go early, and definitely order whatever the waiter recommends (I did, and was not disappointed by the famous clam chowder or the Gulf shrimp lumachini pasta).

What to do in San Francisco.

If you can still walk after all that food (which I could, barely), there are stacks of activities to enjoy.

If you want to take in all the sites and get your bearings, a tour is a good place to start.

I hopped on a Painted Ladies Tour Co. minibus and saw all the iconic sights — the Painted Ladies, the 'Full House' row, the Golden Gate Bridge, and heaps more. It's a fun way to get a lay of the land without walking up a thousand hills.

Full House row of houses in San FranciscoRecognise those houses? They were made famous by Full House's opening credits! Image: Alix Nicholson

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A visit to Alcatraz is also an obvious addition to the itinerary, and even if you're not a history buff, there's something haunting and fascinating about just wandering the old prison grounds. Book ahead, bring a jacket (it gets windy up there), and leave time to just sit and soak in the atmosphere and views.

After Alcatraz, take a stroll down Pier 39 (completely walkable from the ferry wharf, FYI) to see the famous local sea lions. I admit, I stood and watched them loll around for a good 45 minutes, Biscoff latte in hand. It's a bit touristy, sure, but sometimes you've got to lean in when you are… literally a tourist.

And of course, I had to catch a cable car. Think charm and whimsy, perfect for the feed.

Alcatraz island; San Francisco cable carPulling into Alcatraz on the ferry; cable car time! Image: Alix Nicholson.

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For more local history, head to The Castro and wander through one of San Francisco's most vibrant and important pockets.

It's one of the first gay neighbourhoods in the US, and still celebrates that history loud and proud. Check out The Castro Theatre, a local icon, while you're there.

The Castro; Haight-Ashbury, San FranciscoIt's all about colour and vibes in The Castro (left) and Haight-Ashbury (right). Image: Alix Nicholson.

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Nearby, Haight-Ashbury offers a totally different (but just as colourful) vibe — vintage shops, tie-dye everything, and echoes of the Summer of Love. If you like a rummage and a bit of nostalgia, this is your spot.

The takeaway.

Two days wasn't nearly enough, but if you plan it right (and pack stretchy pants), you can still get a delicious, dazzling taste of this fun, vibey city.

Alix Nicholson is Mamamia's Senior Weekend Editor. Follow her on Instagram and TikTok, or subscribe to her Substack.

Feature Image: Supplied.

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