beauty

'I'm a dermatologist. Here's what I really think about these 3 cult at-home devices.'

These days, our obsession with skincare goes far beyond serums and moisturisers. It's all about LED masks, microcurrent wands, laser lights and other expensive vibrating devices.

In fact, the global skincare devices market is expected to reach $33.64 billion in 2025 and is forecast to hit around $84.69 billion by 2034. Absolutely wild figures, if you ask me. 

Watch: Holly Wainwright chats with Dr Leona Yip for advice on what skincare products she should be using. Post continues below.


Video via Mamamia.

We've been influenced to drop hundreds, even thousands, on these devices that promise clinical-level results to slow down the ageing process and promote healthier skin. But the question remains: How effective are they? Do they actually work, or are they just overpriced gimmicks? Or worse, have we been using devices that are doing more harm than good?

Well, we finally have the answers.

On a recent episode of You Beauty podcast, host Erin Docherty spoke with one of Australia's top dermatologists and the Director of Skin Partners, Dr Leona Yip, who revealed exactly what she thought about these cult at-home devices.

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Here's what she had to say...

Microcurrent facial toning devices.

An example of a microcurrent facial toning device is the popular NuFACE Trinity+ device, with the Starter Kit setting you back $648. This type of device claims to tone facial muscles for skin tightening, reducing wrinkles and lifting — TikTokers even claim the results are similar to Botox. Um, sounds like a dream, right?

Well, Dr Yip had thoughts...

"I think this device is a misfit," she stated.

Dr Yip even went so far as to say that the effects of microcurrent facial toning devices and Botox are "polar opposites."

"When our face ages, the main drivers are changes in your fat, your bone and your skin," she went on to explain. "And it's still quite controversial how much muscle shrinkage or muscle weakness contributes to changes in your facial skin when you age. Toning and strengthening muscle alone would likely be of modest benefit without addressing these primary drivers first."

"While some facial muscles may shrink and weaken over time, some others will become bulkier and stronger, and that's when you get more wrinkles."

This is evident when you smile or frown too much. Or, if you tend to over-clench your jaw, your masseters become bulkier over time, which makes you look older.

So, "strengthening some of these muscles will not be a good idea," Dr Yip concluded.

Facial cleansing devices.

There are tons of facial cleansing devices on the market that help remove makeup, dirt and oil more thoroughly than manual cleansing. They can also provide gentle exfoliation, which is super beneficial for improving skin texture.

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FOREO is probably the most well-known facial cleansing device brand, with prices starting at just $69 for devices catering to all different skin types.

So, what's Dr Yip's stance on this?

"As a cleanser, it's a hit, but as a firming device, I'd say it's a miss," the dermatologist said.

"I love that gentle vibration," she explained. "It's silicone, it's non-abrasive, it doesn't cause trauma to the skin, it's great to use it for a gentle massage, and also just to dislodge makeup that stuck into deeper skin creases and deeper skin pores. So it's also good for people with sensitive skin with minimal risk of irritation."

That's a tick for cleaning your skin!

"But I wouldn't rely on it as a firming device."

Want to listen to the full episode where expert dermatologist Dr Leona Yip shares her unfiltered verdict on viral facial gadgets? Click below.

LED therapy masks.

Ever since our COVID lockdown days, the LED mask market has boomed. Seriously, a quick Google search for LED therapy masks brings up thousands of brands and models to choose from, with prices ranging from under $100 to over $1000.

Depending on the wavelengths the mask is fitted with, these devices are said to offer multiple skin benefits, like improving skin texture, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and fading dark spots.

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But how legitimate are they?

"I remember LED masks took off during COVID, and during COVID, I was a fan, because many people couldn't get to clinics to do stronger clinic treatments, and people wanted something at home that's quite gentle, that may help with the skin redness or irritation from face masks and things like that," Dr Yip said. 

However, there is a problem: the market is so saturated with options that it's difficult to decipher which ones work and which are just a waste of money.

Dr Yip explained that these devices are "quite gentle" for those after "entry-level rejuvenation with no specific concerns," so if you're looking to soothe skin, reduce irritation, provide gentle collagen stimulation or aid minor wound healing, they can be beneficial.

But if you require more advanced changes — like addressing wrinkles, pigmentation or skin damage — then, sorry to say this, but... "it's likely not going to work."

"It usually would have to be combined with stronger in-clinic treatments with your dermatologist, like lasers or chemical peels and good skincare," the dermatologist explained. "The home LED therapy masks are a lot lower powered, and that's why it's really difficult to know whether or not they will live up to the claims of doing what they say they would."

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Just to put things into perspective, a lot of at-home masks have an output of anywhere between 30 to 75 milliwatts, while in-clinic treatments have an output ranging from 40 to 150 milliwatts.

"If you would like to use it at home, I'd say yes, it is a hit," Dr Yip concluded. "If you can't get to a clinic for stronger treatments because of logistics of travel, or say, after laser treatments, where you want to address post-laser redness or to address wound healing, then it's a great option."

Benefits aside, it's a nice way to take some time for yourself at the end of a long working day. 

"It's quite relaxing. It's quite nice because, you know, you have that scary mask on. You can't do anything else, you can't look at your phone, you can't read, so it gives you that time out, which is another good thing about it, too."

It's also worth noting that while you can find some masks for under $100, unfortunately, this may not translate to quality. So, it's better to fork out a few extra hundred for a well-rated one that will actually provide benefits. 

And remember: consistency is key, so be prepared to use it "at least three to four nights a week" if you want to see any improvements to your skin.

Feature image: Instagram/@drleonayip_dermo, @clinceo.

Do you own an at-home facial device? Share your thoughts with us in our comments section below.

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