travel

'This US state wasn't on my travel bucket list. After just four days, I'm officially obsessed.'

Let's be honest — for the vast majority of Australians planning a US trip, Utah doesn't usually make the shortlist. 

And I get it — the US is huge and there are so many incredible states and cities to visit. If my recent obsession with hiking hadn't magnificently collided with my guilty pleasure of choice, The Secret Lives of Mormon Wives, I likely wouldn't have made the trip. Ever.

But, I'm so glad, and now I am officially a Utah stan. 

This state has so much to offer, it's brimming with incredible things to see, do, explore, and eat.

Zion on the 9. Image: Supplied.

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Where to stay…

Utah is a massive state, and with only a short amount of time (just four nights) and our sights firmly set on hiking in Zion, we decided to skip Salt Lake City entirely.

Instead, we decided to settle into a charming rural area called Virgin, Utah. It was only about a 15-minute drive from Zion National Park and the main downtown area called Springdale.

I don't say this often, but I found the most perfect accommodation. Now, I'm a budget traveller through and through, usually opting for the bare minimum, but as a nearly-30-year-old, I decided to splurge a little on this dreamy glamping bed and breakfast called Zion on the 9, and it was well worth every single cent. 

This boutique glamping accommodation, nestled in Virgin, Utah, was set right on a farm, with three gorgeous horses you could feed carrots to every morning.

The property also had a pool, which I firmly believe is mandatory for a Utah summer. The coolest part was they also had this funky little speakeasy right on site.

We had some lovely slow mornings reading by the pool and spent a few evenings cooking up a meal on the barbecue (absolutely exhausted from all the hiking, naturally), while watching the sun dip below the horizon. Pure bliss.

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Zion on the 9. Image: Supplied.

As soon as the sun went down, we'd lay our towels on the grass and stargaze. And let me tell you, as someone who has stargazed in the Sahara Desert, these were, without a doubt, the most magical stars I have ever seen.

The sky was absolutely blanketed with thousands upon thousands of them, and I swear, we counted at least 20 shooting stars. It was SO incredible. 

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What to do… 

If you're into spending time in nature and hiking, Zion National Park is the shiniest of jewels. I was utterly floored by its sheer beauty and scale.

You could lose yourself for weeks exploring every single trail. But alas, with only three full days, I had to (reluctantly) narrow it down two hikes.

My heart, predictably, was set on Angel's Landing—naturally the most popular one. This 8.6km round trip hike is a proper workout with plenty of uphill, but the view at the top is ridiculously sweet.

Be warned—this hike involves some truly dizzying peaks. If you're not exactly friends with heights, I'd give it a miss. 

Angel's Landing at Zion National Park. Image: Supplied.

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Unfortunately, you can't just rock up to this one. Given its popularity — and the rather intense final kilometre where you're essentially clinging to chains with sheer drop-offs on either side, numbers need to be limited for safety.

So, you need to secure a permit, which is granted via a random lottery on the National Park Service website. The process itself is surprisingly straightforward: set up an account, pay a small $6 USD fee, and you're in the running.

Just keep in mind that for this particular hike, you can only apply the day before your planned hike, so yes, a sprinkle of good luck is essential. 

The other hike I did (and absolutely recommend) is The Narrows, and fortunately, you can access this one without a permit.

This hike is great for summer, because the entire trek involves wading through cool river water in towering, narrow canyons that cleverly block out the sun.

When it's a blistering 42 degrees with no breeze (which was exactly the temperature when we were there), it's utter heaven.

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The hike can be long, around 10 km back and forth, but you can also shorten it. If you do plan to do The Narrows, I highly recommend hiring a hiking stick.

As a self-proclaimed clumsy baby giraffe, I can attest to the slipping and sliding potential on those river rocks, and that stick was my lifeline, keeping me upright most of the time. 

The views within this canyon were nothing short of incredible. And the further we ventured in, the more the crowds thinned out. It was just us, the towering canyon walls, and the cool water. Perfection.

The Narrows at Zion National Park. Image: Supplied.

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Another national park I recommend visiting is Sand Hollow State Park in Hurricane, which was around 40 minutes from our accommodation but so worth the drive.

Perfect for swimming on a scorching hot day, we spent the whole afternoon there jumping from rocks and just floating around, it was lovely. 

I am all for a good scenic drive, and Utah is full of them. While the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (which starts inside the park) is worth doing, I personally loved the Kolob Canyons scenic drive more.

This was recommended to us by some locals and it is truly mind-blowing. Yes, it's more of those iconic red rocks, but I simply can't get enough. 

Sand Hallow State Park. Image: Supplied.

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Where to eat and drink…

If you've watched the show, or if your algorithm has veered into MormonTok, you probably have heard of Swig. For the uninitiated, imagine a drive-thru soda shop where you can grab a gargantuan custom soda (commonly known as a dirty soda), complete with your choice of creams, syrups, popping pearls and fruit.

For many practising Mormons, these sodas often take the place of a morning latte as "hot drinks" (coffee and tea) are prohibited. 

While I wasn't about to replace my morning flat white with a soda, trying one felt like a quintessential Utah experience. So, as soon as I crossed the state line, I tracked down the nearest Swig (which was easy to find as there are plenty of them) and placed my order.

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To really lean in, I got the largest size, which I am almost certain weighed the same amount as a newborn baby. 

Swig soda. Image: Supplied.

I'm a big fan of a crisp Coke on a hot day, or when I'm battling a hangover (there is not in between), so naturally, I gravitated towards the Waikiki –  a tropical-sounding concoction of Coke, pineapple, and coconut cream. 

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Well, it was interesting. Very sugary, I'd say too sugary, but in a weird way, kind of good? Honestly, I'm still perplexed as to whether I actually liked it.

I barely made it through a quarter of the thing (it was 1.3 litres of soda) before I was well and truly done. 

Since we were hiking daily, sandwiches were our go-to for lunch, and breakfast was thankfully provided by our accommodation.

For dinner, we stumbled upon a quaint little spot in Virgin called Balcony One. Not only did it boast stellar ratings, but it also happened to be the only place to get food in Virgin (a tiny town with a population of less than 300!).

It had this great pub-style atmosphere, but with a lovely, slightly upscale twist. The food was so delicious, and the staff were so friendly, that we actually ended up going back for a second night in a row.

Our waitress proudly told us it was known as the "diamond in the desert," which, after eating there twice, I can absolutely confirm to be true. 

At Balcoony One. Image: Supplied.

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Their French onion soup is their house speciality, so, naturally, we had to try it and it was mouthwateringly good. If you're looking for hearty, all-American food, I cannot recommend this spot enough.

Utah holds a very special place in my heart, and I honestly haven't stopped raving about it since I've come home.

If you're planning a trip to the US, I urge you to consider adding Utah to your list. Not only is it incredibly beautiful, but it also opens your eyes to a truly unique and fascinating part of America.

Feature Image: Supplied.

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