'We've done Japan twice as a family. This is the guide I wish I had the first time.'

Japan has become the top tourist destination for Australians and it's not hard to see why. The strong currency conversion, the unique experiences that cater for the whole family, the safety, the relatively short flight, the food, the ease of getting around… basically, it's heaven. 

I recently visited there with my husband (50) and son (15). I've had so many people who are planning a trip to Japan ask me for tips, so I thought I'd better write them down!

Watch: The Mamamia team on modern travel etiquette. Post continues below.

Getting there.

First up, the flight. The first time we went, we did an overnight flight (9pm from Sydney with Qantas), thinking you save on a night's accommodation, don't lose a day and get right into the trip as soon as you get there.

The second time we departed at 11.50am with ANA (booked through Virgin, so you get Velocity points, BUT you can't choose seats doing it that way), arriving at 8pm'ish.

I strongly recommend the daytime flight. The overnight means you won't get a great sleep (despite how good a flight and service you get from Qantas) so you land a bit tired, which means you don't really maximise the day anyway. 

With the daytime flight, you arrive early enough to go for a walk locally if you want or head straight to bed. Oh, and flying into Haneda is best. It's closer to the city. And strongly recommend a taxi over the train/subway for a family. It's around $100 AUD to get from the airport to Shinjuku. Probably similar to getting to Ginza area.

Getting around.

Google will be your best friend.

The Google app is awesome for translation. Whether you are trying to work out a sign or need to talk to someone in Japanese, it's excellent.

The map function is awesome. It tells you which platform to head to and which carriage to get on for easier exit. Incredible.

You may have heard there are many, many stairs in Japan, so if you need to avoid stairs, you can put a filter on that has accessibility prioritised. It will tell you which entrance to get in.

Paying for trains.

The machines are easy to navigate, BUT the Suica card is excellent once you put it on your phone. Tap and go at the gate for on and off, and you can actually use it at convenience stores as well — we emptied our accounts on the last day with must-have convenience items… meaning treats.

Easy to top up the card via Apple Pay as well. Sorry Android users, I'm not sure what the set-up is on your devices. 

Shinkansen (Bullet Train).

This is really easy to book. If you are going between Tokyo and Kyoto or Osaka, download the EX App. It's really easy and you can add the tickets to your Apple Wallet. Green class is like Business, bigger seats. If you have big bags, you should book Green class and select the seats where you can put your bags behind rather than above. If you don't have huge bags, they can go above your seats and you could buy cheaper tickets. Check the measurements on the site.

To travel to other areas, you might need a different JR service. To get to Kanazawa and then to Kyoto from there, we needed to book on JR East and JR West.  We also needed to pick up the tickets from the main train station prior to the trip so leave enough time to do that or go the day before.  

Tip: Don't pay for the Shinkansen between Kyoto and Osaka. You can get a local train and it's 40 minutes and cheap as chips.

You will do A LOT of steps. Leave the designer sneakers at home and take a solid pair of HOKAs or other shoes that are made for walking. You will 100 per cent regret choosing fashion over function.

Tip: If you get sore legs, the pharmacies all sell these incredible patches you can put on your feet and calves to give some muscle relief. They really do work.

Where to stay in Tokyo.

Both times we stayed at Hilton Shinjuku at the start of our trip. We chose that hotel off a recommendation and it is excellent. A great location. Not in the direct lights of Shinjuku but a 10-minute walk to the action. There is an indoor pool (you have to book) and a gym, plus if you get a suite, you get access to the Executive Lounge where you can get breakfast each day and they serve delicious supper snacks from 5pm-7pm (and drinks). 

At the end of each trip, we returned to Tokyo and stayed in different areas. The first time we stayed at Disneyland. You get early access to the park and the hotel is fun for families. The second time we stayed near Tokyo Station/ close to Ginza. Both very different! Ginza is a great area, but I would say Shinkuku is better for families. 

What to do in Tokyo.

It's enormous but actually really easy to get around.

Where to start….

teamLab Planets

Obviously teamLab Planets is a must-do. But you must also book it as far out as you can. Look as soon as you book your holiday. We went the first time, but then tried to book for the second trip and it was booked out. You have to line up outside for a while and if it's a warm day, you need a hat as it's direct sunlight. 

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Thrifting

It is huge in Japan. All really good quality and really unique. Our 15-year-old son LOVED going to the thrifting shops. Harajuku has quite a few, but it's VERY busy.

If you are serious about thrifting, head to Shimokitazawa. So many streets with unique stores plus the bigger thrift chains. It's about a 20-minute train ride from Shinjuku, really easy to get around. Hot tip: go to the curry place.

The lights of Shinjuku

Incredible at night. So many food options, so much to look at, many photo ops including Godzilla!

A few tips:

• Baseball is huge in Japan — there is a great batting cage in Shinjuku. Lot's of fun.

• Cat cafe!!!! There are a couple and you can't go wrong. They also give you a drink as part of the entry price. Tip: buy a cat treat to get some extra attention. I'm not a "cat person" but I love it.

Image: Supplied.

Omoide Yokocho

Located next to Shinjuku Station are two alleyways full of old-school skewer restaurants. Very tight squeeze and can be hard to get a seat, so you might want to just walk through and take a look. Great when the night neons are on. 

Shibuya

Obviously the crossing is a must-visit. Lots of food places to grab something delicious. There is a Nike store there where you can make custom clothes. My 15-year-old LOVED it. Actually so did my husband.

It takes a few hours, so do it when you arrive and then go exploring. We headed to a pretty cool Tex-Mex restaurant. Great service. Might have to wait for a table but worth it.

They offer an all you can eat at lunchtime but you probably won't need it. You could order off the menu and it is probably cheaper. They make Guac at the table — highly recommend. So fresh, so delicious!

The pig cafe at Yoyogipark is nearby and was great. You have to book and you get your own room. Tip: Buy the piggie treats. They will eat the veggies and then want to curl up on you and sleep.

Harajuku

Hot tip, it's about a 15- to 20-minute walk from Shibuya to Harajuku — I would recommend walking rather than jumping in a cab or driving. You get to explore more streets! Biggest things to do… obviously, Takeshita Street is the main busy street that is close to the station, right in the heart of Harajuku. It's the street that you would have seen all over insta and TikTok. Lots of the popular food items like toffee strawberries, waffles etc, and plenty of cute shops. 

The side streets of Harajuku are really cool to walk around. Head towards the Carhartt store and wander from there. 

Ginza

Plenty of high-end boutiques that are fun to wander past unless you are cashed up. A hot tip for families: Eataly is on the top floor of the Ginza 6 building. You can't book, but we got there at 6.30pm and got a table straight away.

A good option if you have a decent-sized group, which can be hard to get seated at other places. Classic but delicious pastas and they are super quick. Head to Manneken after for some waffles. Incredible. I'd eat the maple flavour with ice cream every day of the week if I had the chance! 

For runners, there is a great track around the outside of the castle, which is awesome. 

Ueno Zoo

Only about 20 minutes from Tokyo Station area and truly amazing… and the entry fee is 600 yen, which is about $6.60. Incredible! So many different animals that I'd never seen before, as well as PANDAS!!!! We booked tickets a couple of days in advance (via their website, it's easy), and on the morning of our booking, we woke up and it was raining. Not great for a zoo experience, but I saw a review saying it's actually great in the rain because there are almost no crowds. So we popped our rain jackets on and grabbed some brollies from hotel reception (if your hotels don't have them, you can buy a couple from a convenience store, approx $8 AUD!). 

A relatively short subway ride and walk from Ueno Station and you are there. Make sure you have your QR codes ready and definitely enter via the Benton Gate. It's the closest to the pandas and you will want to get in line quickly. 

There was a 10-minute line for the pandas when we got there, but we walked past a few signs saying how long the wait is and a huge amount of crowd barriers which makes me think there are normally very long lines, so I recommend you get to the opening gateway before opening.

They also announced a few times that you can't have people join you in the panda line which means the whole family needs to line up together, so make sure you are prepared for the line. It seems like a lot to see the pandas but they are incredible. I could watch them all day but unfortunately, you can't do that at Ueno Zoo — they move you on pretty quickly, so everyone gets fair viewing time, and so the line keeps moving.

A panda eating bamboo in Ueno Zoo, Toyko.

Kanazawa

A much smaller city but full of character, Kanazawa is approximately three hours on the bullet train from Tokyo and about two one-hour train rides from Kyoto (you have to change trains). 

Where to stay in Kanazawa.

I picked The Hotel Sanraku as it had great reviews and looked like it was in a great location. The location was perfect, super close to the Omicho market, and the rooms were well appointed. There is a laundry, which is great for a mid-trip wash. The landscaping in the atrium, which you see as soon as you walk in the hotel, is stunning.

One of the beautiful streets of Kanazawa. Image: Supplied.

What to do in Kanazawa.

Best coffee in Japan

The Cubby Hole has the best coffee in the whole of Japan. Well, I think it was anyway. Excellent, friendly service. You might have to wait outside before and wait to order, but that's because they will take an order and fulfil it before taking a new one. That applies to takeaway as well, but it's worth it. I also had the choc banana bread a couple of times as well, delish.

You'll love the coffee at Cubby Hole. Image: Supplied.

Omicho Market

Some call this market the best in Japan, and if you are a seafood lover, you will probably agree. Kanazawa is known as a fishing town, so the produce is super fresh.

Tip: Some stalls are closed on Wednesday or Sunday, so I'd suggest going on one of the other days if you want to enjoy the whole experience. 

What to eat at Omicho Market

There is a BBQ meat place in the main corridor and you get three skewers for 1500 yen — very reasonable. The gold leaf ice cream is big on TikTok and a few places sell them.

There is also an epic curry restaurant called the Kanazawa Curry Laboratory in the market, which is open for lunch and dinner. It is excellent. We went twice. There was a line every night, but if you get there at 5.45pm (for 6pm opening) you should get in the first seating. They do serve quickly, so you wouldn't be waiting long.

Oysters as big as your hand. Image: Supplied.

Kanazawa is known for gold leaf ice cream! Fancy. Image: Supplied.

An interactive sushi restaurant

Coil a very modern restaurant. You can pick a five, six or eight-plate option, and then you select all the options you want to fill your four sushi rolls. Even a first timer can roll them.

I would recommend the six or eight plates, as five didn't seem like enough to fill four rolls. Very reasonably priced, great location and a bit of fun. 

Kyoto

Last time we went to Japan we only visited Kyoto for a day and saw the most popular sights, which was incredible, but we really didn't get to explore the city. This year we had four nights there and it was just wonderful. 

Where to stay in Kyoto.

We stayed at the Kyoto Candeo Hotel, which was in a perfect location. Close to the market, transport, the unique side streets that house one-of-a-kind restaurants and many boutiques. Anywhere around this spot is great. The Kyoto Station area is also a handy location. 

This hotel has a traditional building at the front and a modern building at the back. Very cool.  Rooms are very well appointed, but are small. That didn't bother us though as we didn't spend much time in there, so it was fine for three people (book a room with a sofa bed). The hotel also has two on-site onsens and a laundry for you to do a load of washing. There is also a library that has coffee and tea available and a lounge where you can grab a glass of wine and chill.

What to do in Kyoto.

Iwatayyama Monkey Park

Wow…. I wasn't sure what to expect, other than monkeys, but I am so glad we went. We needed to get a train and then switch to a tram, which was a bit fun itself.

It was approximately 30-minutes from the main part of town.  It's only a short walk from the station to the base of the park, but be warned it is a sizable hill once you pay your entry fee. Not good for prams unless you are super fit and strong. I don't think I saw one pram on the way up or down.

About three-quarters of the way up you make sure you start looking up because you won't want to miss one of these beautiful monkeys. You'll see some just lazing around, some jumping through the trees and even have the chance to feed them. A definite must-visit!

These monkeys can even wave with their feet. Image: Supplied.

Nishiki Market

Located in the main part of town, the Nishiki Narket has a huge range of seafood and some other stalls in there. I don't eat seafood, but I went pretty hard at the veggie tempura. There was also a huge range of Kobe beef on offer, but it was pricey — circa $25-40 per skewer. Plenty of seafood to dig into and Sake for only 100 yen! Tip: You are not permitted to walk and eat. Most stalls have somewhere you can stand to eat your treats. 

Don't let this picture fool you. This was early in the morning. By lunchtime, it is very crowded but that's part of the fun. Image: Supplied.

At the end of the market, there are some shopping streets that run perpendicular and they are great to wander through. Plus, there is an owl cafe there!

Pontocho Alley

A beautiful alley located next to the Kamo River, and it has plenty of food options. We headed over there for lunch, but there were not many restaurants open. Most are open for dinner though, so I recommend it as a dinner spot. 

Noji Castle

Not far from the centre of town, maybe 20 minutes, is Noji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You have the option of buying a ticket to walk around the grounds, or you can pay a bit more to go into some of the buildings.

We did the walk around, and it was beautiful. Make sure you look into the moat to spot the stunning koi swimming around. It's an easy 30-minute stroll through the gardens and the outside of the buildings, which are incredible to look at. For runners, there is a great track around the outside of the castle.

Shrines and temples

There are quite a few shrines and temples. We didn't visit this time as we saw them last time we went. If it's your first time in Kyoto, I would recommend you go, but just go early as they do get very busy. Usually, the videos and photos you see on TikTok of crowds around shrines are taken in Kyoto. 

Day trip to Nara Park to see the famous deer

Ok, so my husband was keen on going to see the deer at Nara. I assumed it would be a few deer, maybe behind a fence. Oh, how wrong I was. They were everywhere and only maybe a five-minute walk from the station.

You can buy deer treats, but they can smell them as soon as you have them so make sure you are in a comfortable spot first. They are very pushy. They are very sweet, though and will bow to you to get food. Some are a bit more assertive and will go for your shirt if you don't cough up the goods quickly. 

It was about a 40-minute train ride from the main area of Kyoto and you would spend around 30 minutes there. We headed to Osaka from there but you could spend some more time looking around the city. 

Sweet but will also attack your shirt if you don't cough up a deer snack! Image: Supplied.

Day trip to Osaka

Osaka is only a 40-minute local train ride away. You can get the Shinkansen, but it's pretty expensive with the price of a train ticket. Plus, you get to rest those legs on the longer train ride.

Head towards the Dontonbori if you are looking for the hustle and bustle and a place to eat. You must try some okonomiyaki (it's like a cabbage pancake with different fillings) and it is the place to get some takoyaki (fried octopus balls).

Then head up the Shinsaibashi-suji shopping street. 

A photo of the Glica Man is a must-do! Image: Supplied.

The Dontonbori is a must-visit. Image: Supplied.

Convenience store hacks.

Thanks to TikTok, you can easily find what the must-haves are at each store. Thank you, TikTok.

• Family Mart — Fried Chicken and merch. The fried chicken is delicious and costs about $2.50 AUD. Merch — socks!!! It's a thing to buy socks that match the colours of the logo of the stores.

• Lawsons — Ice cream sandwich and Merch. Socks!!! 

• 7Eleven — Smoothies!!!! I had the green one and the berry one. Both delicious. Approximately $4 AUD.

Considerations.

• There are no public bins on the streets. You have to carry your rubbish with you. Family Mart, 7Eleven, etc have small bins if you get desperate. 

• You are not supposed to walk around eating. If you are in a market, most stalls have a spot where you can eat and then dispose of rubbish. You are supposed to stay in a restaurant and eat. The convenience stores sometimes have areas you can sit and eat.

• We didn't get e-sims as Optus has $5 roaming per day, which is very reasonable and more than enough for using maps, socials, calls, etc. 

• Japanese websites can be hard to navigate, which means it can be difficult to book a restaurant. Your hotels can help with that.

• Leave the cool sneakers at home and take shoes that are made for long walks. We averaged 17,000 steps a day. 

• If you have tattoos, you might not be able to visit some onsens. You may also be asked to cover up at the gym (my husband was told to wear a jacket on the treadmill).

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Feature: Supplied.