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'Everyone heads north as soon as it gets cold. Here's why I keep going to Tasmania instead.'

Most people head north in winter; Bali, Queensland, anywhere with a pool and a drink that comes with a slice of pineapple. Me? I head south. Tassie south. Into the chill, into the mist, into a cabin with a pinot in one hand and zero regrets in the other.

Hear me out.

Last (Northern Hemisphere) winter, I did the Scandi circuit, crossing Finland, Sweden, Norway, and Denmark, with saunas, snow — the lot. So when I say Tassie has a bit of that same broody, misty magic, I mean it. Except here, the wildlife is cuter.

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There's just something about winter in Tasmania. It's as if the cold sharpens everything. The oysters taste brinier. The stars feel closer. Even the light has a silvery, soft focus filter. 

I sit by crackling fireplaces and float in lakeside saunas. I pack thick wool socks and the pile of books I never get around to. There are long, slow lunches at cellar doors, spontaneous chats with strangers, and all the earthy, wholesome things I somehow skip on the mainland — forest bathing; just... breathing.

So no, it's not exactly Sweden. But with its moody landscapes, timber cabins, floating saunas, and general slow living, Tassie in winter scratches the Nordic itch.

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Here's why I keep going back.

For the cabin culture, Tasmanian style.

When the weather's wild outside, it helps to have a cosy cabin or a beautifully designed base to retreat to. Luckily, Tasmania has no shortage of them.

One of my favourites for an off-grid escape is Hunter Huon Valley. This A-frame cabin in the woods is all timber and tranquillity, with a deep bath that's reason enough to book. Inside, you'll find a wine fridge stocked with local drops and a pantry full of Tasmanian produce.

Bonus tip: swing by Summer Kitchen nearby for excellent pastries and savoury bites. The place is fully self-contained and completely private, perfect for going full hermit (in a good way).

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Over on the East Coast, those crisp winter beach days are best experienced from a coastal pavilion at Freycinet Lodge. Mornings and evenings are especially magical when Tasmania's winter skies spill colour across the horizon. 

And if you're dreaming of something straight out of the English countryside, Piermont Retreat in Swansea might just be your spot. Just over an hour from Hobart, it's all stone cottages and soft light; like someone airlifted a corner of Scotland and gently placed it on a private beach overlooking Oyster Bay.

The onsite restaurant serves local, seasonal produce, and is a perfect excuse to settle in for the night.

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For the unhinged festivals.

In my experience, most cold places have some kind of festival that leans into the strange, the wild, and the wonderful, and Tasmania's no different. Dark Mofo is the big one.

Held in the depths of winter, the team behind MONA offers up a gloriously weird celebration of the solstice, with fire, feasting, avant-garde art, and one very brisk nude swim at sunrise. It's equal parts pagan ritual and high-concept performance, and somehow it works.

But Dark Mofo isn't the only winter fest worth timing your trip around. There's the Bay of Fires Winter Arts Festival, a self-guided trail that connects local artists and makers along one of Tassie's most scenic coastlines. Bicheno Beams lights up the water with a technicolour laser show.

Tasmanian Whisky Week is exactly what it sounds like — one very good excuse to sip your way through distilleries around the state. And then there's Beaker Street Festival in Hobart, which mixes science with art in a way that somehow makes both more fun. Think dark-sky dinners under the stars, polar plunges, nerdy talks, and plenty of excellent food in between.

For the empty trails and even emptier beaches.

Wineglass Bay, the Bay of Fires — places that are usually buzzing in summer feel like well-kept secrets in winter. No tour buses. No jostling for the best view. No awkward photo queues. Just you, a thermos of tea (or hip flask), and whatever moody weather Tassie decides to serve up that day.

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Though in winter, you'll find Cradle Mountain and its surrounds are a hotspot. But not overrun.

For the Scandi-style dining.

Okay, yes — this technically happens year-round, but something about winter really brings out the best in Tasmania's food scene. The top chefs seem to lean into the cold, smoking and firing up everything from sugarloaf cabbage to local trout like it's a full-body experience.

In Hobart, spots like Fico and Dier Makr keep things beautifully low-key — stripped-back interiors, flickering candles, and that slow, intimate energy that just works when it's freezing outside.

The menus feel like winter love letters: broths that hug you from the inside, smoky fish, fermented bits and pieces, incredible bread. It's not exactly Nordic, but it's giving winter-in-Copenhagen energy — wild, a little mysterious, and seriously delicious. You'll want to order the wine pairing, sink into your seat, and start googling how much it costs to move here.

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For the starry, starry nights, and occasional southern lights.

With barely any light pollution and skies so sharp they feel etched in glass, the stars don't just twinkle, they perform. It's like stepping into a natural planetarium, minus the reclining chairs and science teacher voiceover. On the right night, if the solar winds are playing nice, you might even spot the Southern Lights.

It's the kind of experience that makes you zip your jacket all the way up, forget about your phone, and just stare up, feeling small (in a good way).

For the discounts and special offerings.

Winter in Tasmania comes with quiet bonuses, like cheaper stays, fewer crowds, and fewer cold-weather-only moments you'd miss in summer.

At Devil's Corner, you can sit by the fire pit, oysters in hand, and watch black swans drift through the mist on Moulting Lagoon. Over in Bicheno, Waubs Harbour Distillery serves whisky and an ocean view. Even the Lobster Shack leans in, serving up a winter-only lobster chowder in a bread bowl.

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Plenty of hotels get in the spirit, too, offering seasonal packages. Not to mention, you'll score better rates on rental cars in winter, which is just one more reason to consider visiting Tassie in the off-season.

For more stories to inspire your next domestic escape:

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