'I've done the Greek Islands four times. This is the place I keep telling people about.'

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After a few days in Mykonos — dodging influencers mid-selfie, forking out €18 for a cocktail, and failing to get a dinner booking unless I knew someone who knew someone — I was ready to get the hell off the party treadmill.

Enter: Syros. A 40-minute ferry ride away, this charming Cycladic island feels like Mykonos' cooler, more relaxed big sister.

She's still stylish, still stunning, but she isn't trying as hard to impress you. She knows she's a vibe — and she's a lot more affordable.

I spent five blissful days on Syros, and honestly, it felt like exhaling. So here's what you need to know if you're craving Greek island magic, minus the chaos and markup.

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What is Syros all about?

Image: Supplied.

Nestled in the heart of the Aegean Sea, Syros lures locals and overseas visitors alike. 

Syros has a story that dates as far back as 3000 BC. Over millennia, waves of Phoenicians, Ionians, Venetians, and Ottomans contributed to Syros' flavour, and the result is a blend of architecture that combines Greek, Spanish and Italian design. Think: imposing churches, quaint streets, and charming marble squares. 

The capital, Ermoupoli, is the beating heart of Syros. However, the beaches are where Syros shines.

Galissas Beach is ideal for families, while Finikas has a bit more of that Mykonos-style energy. Picturesque fishing villages like Kini invite lazy afternoons and fresh seafood meals by the sea.

Location and getting there. 

Follow the hearts for all the places we're going to discuss today. First up - where the ferry gets in at Ermoupoli port. Image: Supplied.

If you want to visit the Cyclades, it's hard to go past Syros for ease. 

Located just a 35-minute flight from Athens, or a 40-minute fast ferry from Mykonos, it's right in the hustle and bustle, but feels like it's miles away. 

We arrived at Syros by ferry, which was smooth, scenic and cost less than a round of drinks back in Mykonos.

Upon docking, we were greeted by Mike — a local who began as our taxi driver and quickly became our unofficial tour guide/life coach/Greek uncle. He was everywhere.

Need a lift to the beach? Mike. Want to head into town for dinner? Mike. Forgot your sunscreen and need to go back? Mike.

Racing around in Mike's taxi was a highlight of the trip. Image: Supplied.

Transport on the island is super easy and affordable, especially if you're lucky enough to get yourself a Mike. It only costs about €14 from the city centre to Galissas.

When he finally logged off from work at 11pm, we found it just as easy to hail a cab by the main square in Ermoupoli to get back to our accommodation. 

Where we stayed. 

Galissas beach. Image: Supplied.

We based ourselves in Galissas, a little beach town that immediately made me feel like I was on the set of a European rom-com. We stayed at Remvi Hotel, which was lovely, calm, and incredibly well-located. The host was so kind, and even went to the local shop especially to get me gluten-free bread. 

That is the vibe of Syros. With slightly less tourists than Mykonos, everyone went out of their way to make us feel welcome. 

The hotel Remvi in Galissas, Syros. Image: Booking.com.

Every morning I'd wake up to cicadas humming, the ocean glimmering in the distance, and no plans other than "eat something delicious" and "swim somewhere pretty". Iconic.

Where to visit on the island. 

The beaches.

The water was crystal clear! Image: Supplied.

For one day, we hired a car in Galissas from Alpha Rent-a-Car (sorry Mike!), and spent our time driving around to various beaches, each one more stunning than the last. The water? Crystal-clear. 

The sand in Syros is a little darker than Mykonos, but it actually has this unique 'sparkle' to it, which makes it feel so magical as you walk across the sandy-bottomed shallows. 

We visited Armeos, Kini, Megas Gialos, Ampela, and Poseidonia, and each one offered something different. Kini had sunset vibes and tavernas right on the sand. Poseidonia felt like a fancy postcard. And Ampela? Tiny, hidden, and barely anyone there. We basically had it to ourselves.

Kini beach. Image: Supplied.

Ampela beach. Image: Getty.

Armeos is a hidden beach around from Galissas. Image: Getty.

And unlike other more "famous" beaches (cough Psarou), no one tried to charge us for a sun lounger like it was a VIP concert ticket. My friend and I played game after game of Monopoly deal and soaked up the sun with cocktails and Diet Cokes. Tough life, right?

Gorgeous hikes (with one caveat).

Feeling confident after a few days of doing very little, we ambitiously set off on a hike to Agios Stefanos Church, a gorgeous little white chapel tucked into a cliffside, only accessible by foot or boat.

Panoramic views make up for the spiders. Image: Supplied.

About halfway through, we realised the trail was a spider superhighway.

We pushed through the first few webs, but by the 50th terrifying arachnid dangling in our faces, we gave up.

In saying that, we went in May at the very start of the season, so we'd say they will have vacated the area by the time foot traffic increases. The church is supposed to be a must-see, and the portion of the hike we did was breathtaking.

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The capital: Ermoupoli has my heart.

Syros' capital, Ermoupoli, is unlike anything I expected. It's grand, neoclassical, and feels almost more Venetian than Greek (until you start drooling over the local food menus). The pastel buildings, marble town square, and buzzing little side streets made me want to stay longer.

Ermoupoli. Image: Getty.

We spent an afternoon wandering around, shopping at local boutiques (the linen game is strong here), and eating way too many sweets and gelatos. People were warm and welcoming, and the whole town felt ridiculously safe, even late at night.

Image: Supplied.

Pro tip: order a bougatsa (a Greek custard pie with orange zest) and a freddo espresso and people-watch like it's your job.

Eats on the streets. 

If you go to Syros and don't eat until you're deliriously full at least once a day, you're doing it wrong. We had some standout meals, starting in Ermoupoli.

The ultimate garlicky dip has been officially found at Taverna To Petrino. Image: Supplied.

At Taverna To Petrino, under a canopy of bougainvillea, we ordered a spread of meze and accidentally discovered the best garlicky dip of our lives — a family recipe straight from the owner's grandmother.

The service here was so generous, we felt like regulars after five minutes. 

LIKAO is elevated and modern, and oh so fun. Image: Supplied.

Another Ermoupoli gem was LIAKO Syros, which was like stepping into a stylish Cycladic dream.

Whitewashed walls, soft lighting, and the airy courtyard practically beg you to order one more wine. (Which we did. And it was delicious.)

We ended up doing a Greek dance circle around the bar — and then got invited upstairs by the owner, Benito, to check out the newly renovated restaurant space before it had even opened. That's how warm and welcoming people are here. 

And for post-dinner cocktails? Barrio. Located in the buzzy heart of Ermoupoli, it's the spot for people-watching and perfectly mixed drinks. 10/10 would sip again.

Two Cicadas in the Tamarisk Trees had the most amazing ocean-side view. Image: Supplied.

Outside of town, we struck culinary gold in Kini at a restaurant called Δυο τζιτζίκια στ'αρμυρίκια (don't worry, it translates to Two Cicadas in the Tamarisk Trees — which is also how I'll be naming my memoir).

This place was right on the water, the tables practically touching the sea. The sunset view? Unreal. The food? Even better.

Hotel Benois delivered on the risotto. Image: Supplied.

In Galissas, the Hotel Benois restaurant became our go-to for lunch because (a) it was close to the beach, and (b) the food was ridiculously good. Think fresh grilled meat, risottos, Mediterranean salads, icy drinks, and views of the ocean.

The sweet vingettes of Talaras Taverna, including the delicious GF saganaki. Image: Supplied.

And finally, in Megas Gialos, we discovered Talaras Taverna, a cosy, family-run seaside spot that saved us from the midday heat. The saganaki (Greek fried cheese) was so crispy, and they had plenty of gluten-free options, which almost made me cry with joy. 

Why you should choose Syros. 

Syros is peaceful without being boring. Stunning without being smug. You can swim, eat, nap, and wander around without checking your bank balance every two seconds.

It feels local. It feels homey. It feels like a secret you kind of want to keep to yourself.

Yes, Mykonos is fun—but Syros is where you actually unwind. Where you don't need heels, or reservations, or a VIP wristband. Just a beach towel, a good book, and maybe a Mike.

TL;DR: Syros = affordable, beautiful, relaxing. Skip the hype, keep the magic.

Featured image: Supplied.

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