travel

'Everyone's rushing to Santorini, but this Greek island has less crowds and is equally gorgeous.'

Recently, my algorithms have been absolutely flooded with people visiting Mykonos, Santorini and Crete — all the visually stunning, albeit, tourist-fuelled islands. But I happened to stumble upon the most beautiful, quiet and authentic island in Greece that most people have never even heard of.

And honestly? It changed me.

I was there in peak season in July, and it didn't feel overcrowded at all. It reminded me of the tiny village island my mum is from in Croatia — that same sense of community, that same warmth and intimacy that makes you fall in love, both with the place and the people in it.

Watch: Modern Etiquette Travel. Post continues below.


Video: Mamamia

It's not just a place — it's a village; an incredibly close-knit community. You can feel the love for the land, the food, and a sense of deep respect for the culture everywhere.

Meet Paxos: The Greek island that will steal your heart.

Paxos beach The phone camera doesn't do the water justice. Image: Supplied.

ADVERTISEMENT

Paxos (also known as Paxi) is a small, blissfully quieter-than-most Greek island in the Ionian Sea, south of Corfu. It has the most impossibly aqua, crystal-clear blue waters that genuinely didn't look real. It was like someone had cranked up the saturation in real life.

It's absolutely ideal for travellers seeking something more authentic and refreshingly less commercialised than the typical Greek island experience.

The island is about 10km long and 4km wide, with three main towns that each have their own personality:

Gaios: The capital and main port, which features gorgeous Venetian architecture, waterfront bars, restaurants and markets.

ADVERTISEMENT

Loggos: A fishing village with charming tavernas and a relaxed vibe that makes you want to stay forever.

Lakka: Best known for its stunning bay that's ideal for yachting and swimming in waters so clear you can see your toes.

The main nightlife is in Gaios, which makes it absolutely perfect for couples, families, and solo travellers if you stay further away from the main town. But this is Europe, after all, so the little bars and restaurants stay open until the wee hours, and The Diana Nightclub is open until 6:30am Tuesday–Saturday during peak times.

In essence, it's not a party island, but if you want to party, you can always find one. Absolute perfection.

women at Lakka beach paxos and side by side in front of a pink wall Between swims n lunch at Lakka, and posing with 'Greek media walls'. Image: Supplied.

ADVERTISEMENT

Getting there.

There's no airport in Paxos, so you can only get there by boat. The nearest airport is Corfu International Airport (CFU), and from Corfu, you take a ferry or hydrofoil to Paxos. Or, if you're feeling fancy (and have deep pockets), you can get a private boat taxi.

Ferry tickets range from $25AUD for the five-hour car ferry, to $58AUD for the one-hour hydrofoil, per person one-way. Also, it's Greece and Greek island time, so be prepared to be flexible, as things get cancelled and times change. Trust me, pay the extra $12AUD for a flexi ticket — your sanity will thank you.

Where to stay.

I was incredibly lucky to stay with close friends who own a villa in Ozios, a gorgeous small town just a short stroll from Gaios. There's a range of options on Trip Advisor, including family-run boutique hotels, luxury resorts, apartments, and private villas with pools and sea views.

Prices range from as little as $60AUD per night for Airbnbs through to $900AUD+ per night for private villas with pools. Book early for July/August — the island is small and fills up fast with people who know what's good.

ADVERTISEMENT

Pro tip: Check for amenities. Not all places have air conditioning, and you will need it in the peak of summer. If there's no pool, you'll want to be a close walk to that crystal-clear sea.

What to do (and where to eat).

mand and woman watching a sunset at Erimities Paxos Life changing sunset at Erimitis. Image. Supplied.

You need to get to Erimitis. The food is pricey compared to the rest of the restaurants, but if your budget allows it, take the plunge. We had a bite at home first, then headed for cocktails. The views were breathtaking, and the sunset was genuinely one of the most beautiful I've ever seen. Check the sunset time before you go to take advantage of that golden hour light.

ADVERTISEMENT

Harami Beach Bar and Restaurant — This is (one of many) fabulous places where you can lounge on the beach with table service. Apart from getting a boat to Antipaxos, it has the most crystal-clear blue water with a protected moored area, so boats can't disturb your swim. The restaurant also has delicious food.

Harami Beach bar Paxos Harami Beach Bar heaven. Image: Supplied.

ADVERTISEMENT

Thalassa — Traditional Greek food with service so warm and genuine you feel like a family member who's just rocked up to YiaYia's house. Located right on the water in Gaios, Thalassa features stunning vistas and great people watching.

Carnayo Gold — I loved the food here. It offers Mediterranean/Italian-inspired modern cuisine with creative dishes, set in the most romantic, calm waterfront setting on Mongonissi Bay. It feels like a dream.

greek food from Paxos Thalassa on the left. Carnayo Gold on the right. Image: Supplied.

ADVERTISEMENT

To stay within our budget, we also cooked at home a lot, and there is so much beautiful fresh produce available. We met a private chef (now life-long friend), Andrew, from Supper on Paxos, who lives and works on the island. I would absolutely recommend you book him to cook for you — his Ceviche really 'let it shine'.

Entertainment.

Bournaos — This place exudes a warm, slightly Bohemian atmosphere with a leafy garden, rustic décor, and local vibe. The live music on Sunday nights features a mix of everything from Greek folk music to 80s classics, and yes, we had a sing-along. The setting is relaxed and authentic, and it's a favourite for both locals and visitors seeking that genuine island magic. The food is brilliant too.

Cafe Kalimera — Located in Gaios, this late-night institution looks just like any other quaint street bar by day, but the magic happens after dark (which is after 10pm), when everyone dances inside, until the party spills out onto the street. I had a spontaneous Zorba dance with some locals there. This place was a major vibe.

You absolutely must get a boat (trust me on this).

poeple swimming in the sea and on a boat in Paxos Don't mind us living our best lives. Image: Supplied.

ADVERTISEMENT

Getting a boat to the mostly uninhabited smaller island next door, Antipaxos is considered essential for visitors to Paxos. The island has the most pristine turquoise waters and white-sand beaches; it's like stepping into paradise.

I was so incredibly fortunate that one of my new local friends, Pantelis, took us out on his boat as a generous favour.

There are options for every budget: public ferry for just $2.50AUD one-way, or water taxis from around $42AUD per person return for scheduled tourist boats. If you can gather a crew and feel like splurging, though, I absolutely recommend spending the $100–$200AUD per day for a small self-drive motorboat. Larger boats or those with a skipper cost more, but the freedom is priceless.

ADVERTISEMENT

Getting around.

A scooter, quad bike, or car rental will be your best bet for exploring. It gets scorching hot, so you don't want to get stuck trekking long distances or trapped in one area. There are a handful of taxis (but they can be tricky) and there are buses. But you can't beat the freedom of a scooter or quad bike — the roads are very narrow for car standoffs.

The best and most trustworthy hire company is A&C Rentals, which has scooters starting from $33AUD per day. It's my new dear friend Alex's company. He'll absolutely look after you (tell him I sent you).

woman on a quad bike on Paxos My first trip where I screamed into poor Alex's ear the whole way. Image: Supplied.

ADVERTISEMENT

When to go (because timing is everything).

Late spring to early autumn (May–October) for perfect warm weather and frequent ferries. Peak season (July–August) gets busy, so book accommodation and ferries early — but honestly, even "busy" here feels like a gentle hum compared to other Greek islands.

As of July 2025: 1 Euro = approximately 1.60 AUD. So even though Paxos is generally cheaper than the larger, more popular Greek Islands, the AUD conversion can sting. That's why we cooked a lot at home and bought cask rosé, which was delicious and under $30AUD.

The verdict (and why this matters).

While everyone's fighting for space and paying premium prices on the overcrowded, Instagram-famous beaches of Santorini and Mykonos, Paxos offers something infinitely more precious and rare: actual authenticity. It's where you'll discover the Greece your soul has been searching for — warm, welcoming, and beautifully unspoilt.

So what are you waiting for? I'll see you there for a Yamas, which is how they say "cheers" with drinks, and is my new favourite thing.

Feature Image: Supplied.

As women our bodies are constantly changing! Tell us about your experience and get a chance to win a $1,000 gift voucher in our quarterly draw!

00:00 / ???