travel

This US city rivals New York for culture but with half the tourists and better food.

Like so many of us, America has always fascinated me. For years, I wished I had been born over there, so I wouldn't have to figure out how to eventually live there. Everything happens there, and it's where I wanted to be (Trump, guns and some seriously foundational issues aside).

I've been lucky enough to visit the country a few times now — Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Colorado and most recently, New York for three incredible weeks last September. I loved it. Really loved it.

Since America operates as 50 little countries (not states), I knew there was so much more I needed to explore — with Nashville at the top of my list.

Anyone who's asked about my travel bucket list knows Nashville has been my obsession for ages.

"I just want to dance on tables," I'd say in that semi-sarcastic-but-actually-serious way. I love country music, and the thought of chucking on cowboy boots and a hat thrilled me. Not to mention the Southern BBQ.

I returned from Nashville last month and couldn't speak more highly of it. While I didn't technically dance on tables, I danced plenty and ate amazing food (at tables — so I sort of ticked that off my list?) and so much more.

Here's what I recommend you do in Nashville, Tennessee, if — and hopefully when — you go.

But first, watch a video from my Nashville trip here. Post continues after video.


Charlotte Begg.
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Where to stay in Nashville.

During our week in Nashville, we were lucky enough to stay at two boutique hotels in downtown Nashville, both a skip and a jump away from the Honky Tonk bars and Broadway.

Noelle Nashville.

First, there was the Noelle, a stylish boutique hotel with character in a restored 1930s building. The staff were kind and accommodating, and sitting just four blocks away from the main strip, you're close enough that it's convenient, but far enough that you still feel away from it all.

The outside of the Noelle Hotel, Nashville, featuring their sign, the American flag and Tennessee.The Noelle Hotel, Nashville. Image: Instagram/@noelle_nashville

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The hotel has its own little ecosystem — a great coffee shop for morning planning, a gift shop with items I'm still dreaming about, a modern Mexican restaurant for a killer margarita and tacos, and a hidden speakeasy that's perfect for a nightcap.

Bobby Nashville.

With its leather Chesterfield couches, moody lighting and music-inspired touches, Bobby brings the rock 'n' roll flair. The rooms are spacious and cool, but the rooftop is the highlight.

There's a bar at the centre, with a lawn and games on one side and a pool on the other, all overlooking downtown Nashville. It's the perfect spot to begin your night or wind down after a day exploring the city.

The rooftop pool at Bobby Nashville surrounded by loungechairs with skyscrapers behind.The rooftop pool at Bobby Nashville. Drool. Image: Instagram/@bobbynashville

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What to do in Nashville.

Grand Ole Opry.

An absolute must for a visit to Nashville. For the uninitiated, the Grand Ole Opry is a live country-music radio broadcast held between two and five nights per week. Musicians get inducted into the Opry — anyone from Dolly Parton to Luke Combs.

You'll hear roughly four singers or bands perform each night, and when we went, Lady A were playing and sang 'Need You Now'. Goosebumps.

Even if you're not a huge country fan, the history and energy of this iconic venue makes it worth experiencing.

An ice hockey game.

There's something uniquely Nashville about cheering on the Predators (affectionately called the "Preds") at Bridgestone Arena. The atmosphere is electric, the fans are passionate, and even as someone who knows nothing about hockey, I was caught up in the excitement almost immediately.

Located on the corner of 6th Avenue South and Broadway, it's perfectly positioned for a night that flows naturally from sports to music and bars.

Broadway.

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Broadway is Nashville's beating heart — a neon-lit stretch where music pours from every doorway from around 10 in the morning to 3am.

After the Preds play, Broadway gets closed off and you can walk down the main road into any Honky Tonk bar. Several musicians own a stake in their own bar, including Miranda Lambert, Jason Aldean, Luke Combs and Morgan Wallen. We went to Wallen's This Bar and belted out 'Man I Feel Like A Woman' as a live band sang it.

It's a little touristy, yes, but put on a cowboy hat and lean in.

Nashville's Broadway strip of Honky Tonk bars and their neon signs lit up at night as people walk below.The neon strip at night. Image: Supplied.

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Spend the day in East Nashville.

East Nashville is where all the creatives live. It's away from Broadway, sprawled out, and in areas, more suburban. But sprinkled throughout are the coolest dive bars, restaurants and shopping. Lots of shopping.

This is where you'll find Nashville's authentic local scene — it's less cowboy boots, more indie boutiques and craft coffee.

Where to eat in Nashville.

Edley's Bar-B-Que.

Edley's Bar-B-Que was probably the standout of the trip. A Nashville classic draped in American flags and surrounded by flat screens playing football and hockey, it's the place to tuck into classic barbeque brisket.

The meat is so tender it practically melts in your mouth, and the sides (including their famous banana pudding) are equally impressive.

A BBQ brisket platter featuring mac and cheese, collard greens and conbread from Edley's Bar-B-Que.The standout meal of the trip – Edley's. Image: Supplied.

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Arnold's Kitchen.

A Nashville institution since 1982, family-owned and run Arnold's Kitchen embodies the city's famous "meat and three" tradition (select one meat and three sides).

Choose from any of their daily meat dishes and sides, and you won't need dinner. It's only open Monday through Friday for lunch, so plan accordingly.

Bad Idea.

Over in East Nashville, where everything's just that little bit cooler, you'll find Bad Idea — a buzzy wine bar and restaurant located inside a restored church. On the menu is an eclectic mix of wines paired with Laotian fusion cuisine.

There's a reason The New York Times named it one of their favourite places in the US for 2024.

Prince's Hot Chicken.

I am not a fried chicken girl, but I'm still dreaming about this meal. One of the oldest fried chicken joints in Tennessee, Prince's Hot Chicken makes anything from mild to extra-hot chicken tenders.

The chicken is juicy, the batter is (importantly) not too thick, and the sides were so American and so delicious. Even if you think you're "not a fried chicken person" like me, Prince's might just convert you.

A plate of Prince's Hot Chicken featuring four chicken tenders on white bread, pickles, coleslaw and mac and cheese.Hellooo, Prince's Hot Chicken. Image: Supplied.

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I came for the music and dancing, but quickly fell in love with the soul of Nashville — its friendly locals, its incredible food scene, and that constant energy that makes you feel like something exciting is about to happen. Nashville doesn't just live up to the hype — it creates a whole new standard.

The writer's trip was supported by Nashville Convention & Visitors Corp.

Feature image: Supplied.

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