travel

'Everyone knows about Paris, but this lesser-known town in the South of France is a hidden gem.'

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If you're anything like me: travel obsessed but rarely with the time (or the cash) to indulge, then a trip to Europe is less a holiday and more a pilgrimage: an opportunity to maximise the amount of culture and inspiration you can draw from as much time off as the leave calendar — and budget — allows. 

The thing is, no matter how much I plan, I always wind up panic-searching the house for my passport (I nearly had to cancel my latest trip) and hoping I can squeeze every drop of culture, history, and delicious food out of a two-week stint.

So when an incredible opportunity arose through Qantas, Atout France and Air France to visit France with a pre-planned itinerary, I jumped at the chance.

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Now when we talk about France, we normally talk about Paris. And when we talk about the south of France, we picture the chic shores of the Côte d'Azur, or the picturesque hilltop villages of Provence. These places are famous for a reason, but they're not the only ones worth visiting.

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In fact, I spent 48 hours in Montpellier — a lesser-known destination in the South of France — and although I had no idea what to expect, what I found was pure magic.

From the cobblestone streets to the chilled-out little cafés and bars dotted around, the whole vibe of the city was laid back, unpretentious and filled with uni students and locals going about their daily lives.

There wasn't the "ra-ra" of a typical tourist destination, so you're stepping into the culture as it actually is every day. And for an authentic French experience, that's exactly what I wish for.

My top 3 Montpellier must-do moments.

If I had to bottle up the magic of my short trip and hand it to you, these three moments would be in it. They were the perfect blend of history, culture, and that delicious, local South of France flavour:

Sipping History at Domaine de l'Engarran.

Forget the crowded cellar doors; this was a truly special experience. We visited a stunning, centuries-old winery where the history is as rich as the wine. The Domaine de l'Engarran has been in the same family for a remarkable eight generations, with the last three being trailblazing women who run the show.

Sitting there, sipping their delicious wine, after a tour of the chateau in the vineyard which has been operational since before the French Revolution, I felt so tiny in this big, vast world, yet so connected to something so human and beautiful.

This is one of the best things about experiencing different cultures and what I love so much about travel.

Split image of chateau entrance and garden with fountain.Image: Supplied.

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A private key to history on the walking tour.

On this trip I discovered that a walking tour with the local tourism office is the ultimate hack to get behind-the-scenes in a city, within a time limit. Our guide was a well-informed local who lifted the curtain on what makes Montpellier so unique: helping us see that it's not just a quaint town built on centuries of history, but also a modern working city keeping up with everyday life. 

Mollie stands overlooking a view of the town.Image: Supplied.

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Not only did our guide give us the full rundown on the majestic Faculté de Médecine, the world's oldest fully operational medical school (with 800 years of history literally carved into the walls), but she had the actual keys to the city's hidden gems.

We descended into the medieval Mikvah, a beautifully preserved 13th-century Jewish bath hidden behind lock and key, and even climbed up the locked interior stairs to the top of Montpellier's own Arc de Triomphe (the original but smaller than the iconic L'Arc in Paris) for a breathtaking panoramic view of the entire city

Split image of historical church and the inside. Image: Supplied.

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Getting blissfully lost in the medieval heart.

My best travel moments are always the simplest.

While the historical sites were epic, my favourite thing was just wandering the medieval "historical" town centre. This was the ultimate way to soak up the unique blend of ancient and modern. I almost got lost in the little laneways, smelling the croissants wafting from every boulangerie (tip: go where the queues are), and admiring the beautiful cobblestones and colourful bunting — if you hit the colourful steps, "Rue du Bras de Fer", you're in the right spot. 

Wandering in and out of every boutique? That's my ideal, low-pressure way to soak up the local atmosphere.

Split image of French towns and bag of croissants.Image: Supplied.

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A few other highlights:

  • Our first stay at the exquisite Domaine de Verchant was everything you dream of: a stunning hotel nestled right in the middle of a working vineyard, and its own Michelin-recommended restaurant. Plus — their incredible gym was the perfect start to the day in my jet-lagged state.

  • The woman who ran our second night's accommodation, Hotel Richer de Belleval, was a force of nature. Dressed impeccably like Sylvie in Emily in Paris — though I'm sure she'd be deeply offended if I suggested such a thing — she was buzzing around from the moment we left the foyer for our 6am croissant run until we finished our late, delicious bistro meal at 11pm. She was everywhere, making sure every detail of the experience was flawless, and always looking flawless and impossibly chic.

  • Place de la Canourgue (luckily right by our hotel) was my favourite spot for an afternoon Aperol between shopping sessions. The weather in mid-November was very mild and the sun streamed in between the 17th-century mansions to hit the gorgeous wild-yet-curated gardens — exactly the kind of old-world elegance you hope to find in France.

Lemon Spritz and espresso.Image: Supplied.

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But here's the real bonus I discovered: Montpellier isn't just a destination, it's a brilliant base.

Even though I didn't get my toes in the water this time, I loved knowing the Mediterranean coast was just minutes away — offering beautiful beach vibes without the mega-rich crowds of the Riviera. Vibrant cities like Barcelona are close (about three hours by train), you're only a 90-minute flight from Paris, and the rest of Southern Europe is on your doorstep. 

It truly hits the sweet spot: authentic everyday French culture, close to the Med, and perfectly positioned for your next adventure.

C'est magnifique!

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Feature image: Supplied.

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