'I've been to Japan a few times. No one knows about my all-time favourite spot.'

If you haven't already been to Japan, there's a good chance it's at the top of your travel wishlist.

I've been there a few times, and while all the usual spots like Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka are incredible, most people haven't heard about my favourite Japanese holiday destination.

It's called the Kumano Kodō Trail — a stretch of trails that make up a UNESCO World Heritage-listed pilgrimage.

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The first time I visited, I didn't really know what to expect from the Kumano Kodo. I'd seen the photos of temples and old forests, but nothing really prepares you for how peaceful it feels. 

And how steep. People always talk about the spirituality of the trail, but honestly, the first thing I felt was how unfit I was.

If you want to see a different side of Japan, like a challenge or are keen to add some slow-paced travel to your Japan holiday, here's what I wish someone had told me before I did the Kumano Kodō Trail.

The walking rhythm.

You don't have to be extremely fit, but you do need to be okay with long days and lots of hills.

Most days start early with breakfast at the guest house you are staying at. You get a homemade packed lunch made by your host and off you go on your daily 7km -15km pilgrimage. The trail winds through these deep cedar forests where it's so quiet you can hear your own footsteps. Then suddenly you're walking through a tiny village with two houses and a vegetable patch. Then you're back in the forest again.

The trofest. Image: Supplied.

There are long climbs that feel never ending. There are also moments where you stop because you realise you haven't seen another person for ages. Then, just to keep you on your toes, you turn a corner and there's a vending machine in the middle of the woods. 

Some sections really stood out for me.

The stretch from Takijiri to Takahara hits you with the first proper climb. The part from Takahara to Chikatsuyu is green and soft and just really pretty. And the final approach to Hongu Taisha feels special, as you know that you are following in the footsteps of so many others — oh and the fact that you finally made it!

The final approach to Hongu Taisha. Image: Supplied.

Where you sleep.

The guesthouses along the trail ended up being a huge highlight. You stay in small family homes or traditional inns. The floors are tatami mats, the beds are futons and everything feels calm the moment you walk in.

Where to sleep. Image: Supplied.

The hosts treat you like you've come home. At one place I stayed, the woman running it just kept bringing out more dishes for dinner and smiling proudly at every plate. She reminded me of the grandmas I grew up around in Kazakhstan, the ones who simply wouldn't accept you'd had enough to eat.

The food.

Always so excited about the food. Image: Supplied.

You will not go hungry. Every dinner is a full spread. Fresh river fish, vegetables cooked in ways I can't describe properly, pickles, rice, soups, little plates of things you've never seen before but somehow want more of.

Breakfast is just as big. It sets you up for the day, which you definitely need. Lunch is usually something simple, a bento or snacks you grab from a shop. The trail has lots of towns scattered throughout where you can find a small local milk bar for snacks and drinks.

The unexpected moments.

My favourite memory is from a day that felt very long. I found a river that was so clear it didn't look real, so I went straight in for a swim. It must have been around twenty degrees. To me, that's perfect. To the locals walking past, absolutely not. They were genuinely confused but also so sweet about it, sort of half laughing, half worried about my life choices.

Another thing I loved was how easy it is to meet people. You naturally fall into conversation with other walkers. A woman from Spain who had changed jobs and wanted a reset. A couple celebrating a big birthday. A Japanese retiree who does the trail every year. You don't walk together for long, but it still makes the trip feel shared.

The highlight.

My absolute favour part of the trip was a small town called Yunomine Onsen, which hosts one of Japan's oldest hot springs. Not only is it the most adorable Japanese town, you can also have a soak directly on the river in a wooden booth (so you can go naked).

Yunomine Onsen. Image: Supplied.

The booth is private, so it's perfect if you feel uncomfortable going to a public onsen. My advice is to book it in as soon as you get there, as the spots fill up fast.

A few things I'd tell a friend.

Luckily you don't have to carry your big bag everywhere (also a highlight), your luggage can be transferred village to village for you. So if you wanted to go to Tokyo or Osaka before or after, you can still bring your suitcase and can just take a backpack on the daily hike. It's very safe, which is a relief as a single female traveller. Although, be prepared not to see any people for long stretches at a time.

Book your trip early, as guesthouses are limited and you need a place to sleep. And if you see an onsen, just go; there is nothing better after climbing uphill for hours. Be mindful that not all onsens tolerate tattoos, especially on an old trail like this one. 

Sasha Fidler is the founder of Oddtrips, a Melbourne-based slow travel company inspired by a passion for less-travelled locations, and Sasha's upbringing in Kazakhstan surrounded by Central Asian hospitality. Oddtrips was built around the idea that the best travel experiences come from the people you meet, not the boxes you tick.

Feature image: Supplied.