travel

So. You can do wine country with kids (and actually relax).

We're a family of five. Two parents, three boys aged 2, 6 and 8, and a shared Google calendar that resembles a Tetris game designed by someone having a breakdown. So when the opportunity came up to spend a weekend in the Hunter Valley — together, outside, and ideally with a glass of something chilled in hand — I didn't need convincing.

The idea of going to wine country with kids might sound like an oxymoron, but I'm here to tell you: it's possible. More than that, it's actually wonderful — relaxing, even! There's space to run, food that even toddlers will eat, and family-friendly wineries in the Hunter Valley where kids are as welcome as wine dogs. You just need the right spots.

Here's how we did it in 48 hours.

Friday.

Family-friendly accommodation: Spicers Guesthouse in Hunter Valley.

Just over two hours from Sydney, the drive to the Hunter is short enough to avoid backseat meltdowns, but long enough to feel like you're going somewhere.

At 2pm in early June, we arrived at Spicers Guesthouse and were greeted with welcome drinks: sparkling wine for the grown-ups and a home-made, lemonade-style cordial for the boys. It was the beginning of winter, but the weather was so glorious you'd think someone had ordered it 'specially.

Spicers Guesthouse in Hunter ValleyThe rolling hills of Spicers Guesthouse. Image: Supplied.

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Let me tell you about Spicers: it feels like someone lent you their sprawling countryside home. You know, if that someone had a tastefully styled estate on acres of manicured lawns, surrounded by vineyards and wild kangaroos.

Our connecting rooms opened onto a shared deck, and beyond that were rolling green hills dotted with vines turning golden in the afternoon light. The rooms are luxe but unpretentious, filled with sunlight and that homely kind of calm. In the common areas, people lounge by the fire in the lobby, sprawl in armchairs with books, or sip wine by the outdoor fire pit as the sun sets. At breakfast, they'll even move tables onto the lawn so you can eat in the winter sun.

The rooms are Spicers Guesthouse.A very homely room. Image: Supplied.

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The rooms are Spicers Guesthouse.

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First stop: a massage at Spa Anise.

While my husband wrangled the kids, I was whisked away for a massage at Spa Anise found at Spicers Vineyards Estate. One full hour of glorious, uninterrupted silence — the kind of luxury that feels almost foreign when you're used to bathroom visits being interrupted by small voices asking for snacks. This hotel spa has a vast menu (my husband tried the body scrub) for whatever you are after, and at the end I was treated to a sparkling wine as I sat by the fire. Spicers' guests can also enjoy shuttle services between their different properties, so you don't need to worry about transport.

Spa Anise Bliss at Spa Anise. Image: Supplied.

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Early kid-friendly dinner at éRemo.

That night, we dined at éRemo, Spicers' on-site restaurant. The wait staff were incredible, and so friendly that they genuinely made us feel at home, even when we were by far the noisiest table.

We shared the baked grapes with gorgonzola to start, which we both thought was incredibly strange, but they were sweet, creamy, and impossible to stop eating. My husband had the steak, I had a seafood pasta, and both were divine. We even managed a proper adult conversation. Meanwhile, the kids had chicken and chips followed by ice-cream (and were kept busy with colouring-in and pencils that appeared like magic). The 5pm seating was genius — early enough that the kids weren't overtired, late enough to feel civilised.

Hunter Valley dining experiences for familiesDinner by the fire at éRemo. Image: Supplied.

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Stargazing on Spicers' Guesthouse grounds.

After dinner, we wandered outside to do a little stargazing. The winter air was crisp but not cold; perfect for pointing out constellations and planets. The hotel even supplies you with a map of the sky, making you feel like a professional astronomer. Then all five of us curled up on the big bed in our room to watch Netflix. Everyone was asleep by 9pm in big fluffy hotel robes.

Stargazing at Spicers GuesthouseStargazing. Image: Supplied.

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Saturday.

Early Breakfast at éRemo.

We were up with the sun (thanks, kids), and headed back to éRemo for breakfast. Great coffee, pancakes, and juices for the boys, and a few deep breaths for us as we sat in the winter sun with nowhere else to be. The breakfast menu is genius. For a set price, you get a choice of main and free rein to the cereal, pastry and fruit bar, as well as drinks.

Breakfast at éRemoBreakfast at éRemo. Image: Supplied.

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Play tennis, swim and explore the Spicers' Guesthouse grounds.

After breakfast, we wandered the property. Kangaroos grazed nearby, completely unbothered by the three small boys pointing and whispering excitedly. The boys played tennis (or at least, hit balls enthusiastically), and then we made our way to the pool. The spa was warm enough for winter soaking, and the boys took "cold plunges" with a bravery I absolutely did not share.

The tennis court and pool at Spicers Guesthouse Grounds The grounds at Spicers Guesthouse offer so many family-friendly activities. Image: Supplied.

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Picnic lunch.

At lunchtime, Spicers brought us a picnic basket filled with cheese, sandwiches, baked treats and drinks. We stretched out on the lawn on a picnic rug and just... stopped. The boys ran circles around us, rolled down hills, and played elaborate games involving sticks and imagination. It was slow, golden, and glorious, the kind of moment that makes you remember why you wanted kids in the first place.

Picnic at Spicers GuesthouseThe fanciest picnic I ever did see. Image: Supplied.

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Elbourne Wines: The Best Family-Friendly Winery in Hunter Valley

That afternoon, we headed to Elbourne Wines, one of the most family-friendly wineries in the Hunter. There were trampolines, play equipment, soccer goals, grassy lawns to roll around on, and friendly dogs and guinea pigs wandering about. We sipped rosé (their bestseller) while the boys jumped, patted animals and played for literal hours. For once, I wasn't on the entertainment committee — the winery had that covered.

Elbourne Wines: The Best Family-Friendly Winery in Hunter ValleyMe wine. Them a trampoline. <3. image: Supplied.

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Dinner at Circa 1876.

Dinner was at Circa 1876, a breathtaking heritage building turned restaurant. The boys were taken on a garden tour and got to feed chickens before we sat down to a three-course set menu. Watching my 2-year-old tentatively offer grain to a chicken while my 8-year-old explained the finer points of poultry care was worth the trip alone.

I had the barramundi, perfectly cooked, crispy-skinned, light and flavourful. The setting was special, the food was elegant, and the kids were happy. That's the holy trinity of family dining.

Back at the hotel, we curled up with a movie and drifted off early, again. This is what happens when fresh air and good food work their magic.

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Circa 1876 family dining experienceCirca 1876. Image: Supplied.

Circa 1876 family dining experienceThe chickens! Image: Supplied.

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Sunday.

Breakfast and goodbyes.

We lingered over our final breakfast, letting the boys run around on the lawn as we packed. No one wanted to leave, which is always the best sign.

Hunter Valley Go-Karting: A fun family activity.

Before we hit the road, we stopped at Hunter Valley Go-Karting, for, in the boys' words, "real life Mario Kart". Even the littlest enjoyed cheering everyone on and the adrenaline rush was real. It was the perfect way to end the trip on a high.

Hunter Valley Go-Karting: A Fun Family ActivityThe unexpected hit of the weekend: Go-Karting. Image: Supplied.

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A few family travel tips:

Book a place with space. Connecting rooms and rolling lawns made Spicers ideal.

Don't over-schedule. The magic was in the slow, unplanned moments.

Find kid-welcoming wineries. Elbourne Wines is a must-visit.

Let go of perfect. Something will spill, someone will cry. It's still worth it.

Bring swimmers. Even in winter. Especially for the spa.

Book early dinner seatings. 5pm means happy kids and civilised parents.

Eliza stayed as a guest of Spicers Guesthouse. All views expressed are the author's own.

Feature image: Supplied.

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