beauty

'I have hooded eyes. Here are my 7 non-negotiable tips for eye makeup.'

Usually, makeup advice and tips for ageing and hooded eyelids are given by and shown on people that... do not have hooded eyes. 

For those of us with truly hooded eyelids, the frustration we feel is great - because we know the look will not translate.

Sigh. 

Watch: Ask a Makeup Artist: How do I get rid of under-eye bags? Story continues below.


Video via Mamamia.

Genetics and age can all play a part in hooded eyelids and, given I have both and a love of eye makeup, I'm here to let you know about the tried and tested techniques I use.

Not only do these tricks help disguise the fact that my eyelids are sitting on my eyelashes some days, but they also help make the most of my eye looks. 

Because who doesn't love a jazzy eye?!

Before we get into it, to achieve the below look I used e.l.f Cosmetics Bite-Size Eyeshadow in I Love You A Latte, $6 and OXX Cosmetics 9 Shades Eye Shadow Palette in Emerald, $4.

Image: Supplied

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1. Use a primer.

Now, if you tend to wear eyeshadow, this should be second nature. Eyeshadow primer will help prevent creasing and stop the eyeshadow from moving around too much, which tends to happen on a hooded lid. It's up to you if you set it. 

For me, it depends on what primer I am using, as well as what eyeshadow I use.

2. Change your crease.

It's natural, when following makeup tutorials, to place a transition shade in your crease. The problem with this on hooded eyes is that it can completely disappear under your hood. 

The way around this is to look straight ahead into a mirror and place your shadow above this, where you would like your crease to be. 

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Work your transition shade from the centre of your eye in a straight line across to your inner corner of your eyebrow.

This straight line will open the inner half of your eye. Close your eyes and then deepen the transition shade, creating a new crease.

3. Use a dark shade on the outer corners of your eyes.

Adding a dark, matte shadow to the outer corners of the eyes and creating the illusion of depth and “pushing” the hooded lid back. 

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A lot of people don't like to use too dark of an eyeshadow during the day, fearing it may look too much and make them look older. But if you have heavily hooded eyes, the illusion of pushing your lids back will actually make you appear younger. 

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The trick to this is to ensure that you blend, blend, blend that colour, diffusing it into softness. Do this on the outer third of your eyes.

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4. Use lighter shades on your eyelid. 

Lighter shades help bring the lid forward and give the appearance of larger eyes, giving them a lift. 

You can either add a cut crease or a faux cut crease by bringing the lighter shade up past the natural crease of your lid, opening the space on the inner third of your eyes.

5. Skip the upper eyeliner.

As mentioned before, my lids practically sit on my eyelashes on one side - so using upper eyeliner is something I've been happy to let go of (unless using false eyelashes, but more about that soon). 

The stress and mess of creating a wing eyeliner is just not worth it to me as no matter what I do it disappears. However, if your lids are not as heavily hooded as mine and you really want upper liner, then the bat-wing eyeliner shape is the best way to go. 

Instead, I tight-line my upper water line, sometimes pushing it into my lashes, if I want to add a bit of dark depth there.

6. You can use bold colours.

I must admit I love bold coloured eyeshadow and used to avoid them as they would get lost under my hood. There are two ways I get around this.

First off, I use colour on the inner third of my eyelid as per step four, and follow by an inner corner highlight.

Image: Supplied

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The other way, if you're not comfortable doing this, is to use a bright eyeliner on your lower waterline and bright eyeshadow on your lower lash line for a great pop of colour.

7. Give your lashes some love.

Like eyeliner, applying mascara with hooded eyes can be stress-inducing. It doesn’t take much to ruin a whole look, leaving a row of dots across your eye, let alone the reality of constantly ending up with panda eyes. 

Without fail, I use an eyelash curler to open my eyes. A volumising mascara will help hide the hood on the outer corners. If you like to add some length, you can add a lengthening mascara to the centre. 

Image: Supplied

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When it comes to false eyelashes, it is important with hooded eyes to use a shape that opens your eyes. Go for lashes that are longer in the centre and shorter at either end. Lashes that are longer on the outer corners can make your eyes look droopy, not only ageing you, but making you look tired.

This is generally the only time I use eyeliner on the upper lids. A thin line from inner to outer corner, not extending out to a wing, to help disguise the lash band.

Now, if your hooded eyelids rest on your lashes or even overhang, then some people might consider a blepharoplasty procedure - whereby plastic surgeons remove the excess loose skin on your eyelid. 

Mine is getting close to that stage, and I will absolutely be having this procedure in the future. When I do, I will guide you through the process. Until then, I will keep faking it with my makeup!

Do you have any tips or tricks you'd like to add? Share with us in the comment section below.

Feature image: Supplied.

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