beauty

Knowing these 3 types of skin will change your skincare routine.

Recently, I came across an article written in Grazia about how ageing faces can be categorised into three main categories: 'sagger', 'sinker' or 'wrinkler'.

My initial reaction: Who cares? Can we stop making women feel like s**t?

Because the truth is, while we've all been sucked into the rhetoric that anti-ageing is dead and the midlife beauty revolution is here, the truth is, the global anti-ageing market is big business — and it's only going to get bigger. By 2030, it's predicted to grow to 120 billion USD.

That's because at the end of the day, there's a lot of money to be made in the business of telling people they need to stop their skin from ageing. To 'slow down' the inevitable.

Watch: Speaking of skin, here's makeup artist Amanda Ramsay on skincare over 50. Post continues below.


Video via Youtube @AmandaRamsayMakeup.

While the ageing standards have in no way dissipated, at the other end of the spectrum is the fact that women should also feel empowered to do whatever makes them feel the most confident, happy version of themselves. And these days, with the destigmatisation of cosmetic treatments and a move into individual personal style when it comes to how you look, beauty is very much a 'you do you' kind of space.

ADVERTISEMENT

Which brings me back to these three categories, which were initially offered up as a question by UK journalist, author and founder of 'The Tweakments Guide', Alice Hart-Davis.

On Instagram, Hart-Davis asked her followers: "Are you a 'sagger', 'sinker' or 'wrinkler'?"

"It turns out that if you're an aesthetic practitioner, amongst the many factors you'll be considering when assessing a patient's face is; are they a sinker a sagger or a wrinkler," she explained.

Take a look below:

ADVERTISEMENT

Looking at my own face, I feel I show signs of a 'wrinkler' — I have static wrinkles (the kind that still show when your face is at rest) across my forehead, crow's feet and smile lines.

So, what does this mean? And what should I be doing if I want to prevent further lines from developing?

I decided to speak with cosmetic doctor Dr Yalda Jamali from Epios Cosmetic Clinic to find out everything to know — and ask if this is actually something we should be paying attention to.

Understanding sinker, sagger, and wrinkler skin types.

According to Dr Yalda, "A 'sagger' is probably referring to someone that has a poorly defined jawline, drooping eyelids and prominent jowls. A 'sinker' is probably referring to someone who has lost a lot of volume through the ageing process. A 'wrinkler' is someone that has extensive static lines at rest." 

Cool cool cool.

So, what does it actually mean?

"You can't really put patients in these three categories," Dr Yalda. "We will all have some signs of ageing — the extremity of these signs will vary on many factors such as intrinsic ageing (genetics) and extrinsic ageing (lifestyle factors)."

Meaning? You'll usually see a combination of all three factors through the ageing process.

Yay! All of them!

How to identify your skin type: sinker, sagger, or wrinkler.

The easiest way to know how your face is ageing? Book in for a consultation with an expert, like a cosmetic doctor.

ADVERTISEMENT

"Have them evaluate your face," advised Dr Yalda. "Often we speak about ageing in a negative way but ONLY if you want to reduce the signs of ageing should you then put a plan of treatments in place to reduce these signs."

Again, signs of ageing shouldn't be seen as something that needs to be 'fixed'. It's a totally normal thing that happens to absolutely everyone. But if there are certain things about the skin ageing process that are bothering you, seeing an expert is the best way to figure out the appropriate steps. Because when it comes to facial aesthetics — it's not a one-size-fits-all kind of deal.

"It is good to know what your specific concerns and indications are so you can have better targeted treatments," added Dr Yalda, reminding us that not everyone is suitable for every treatment.

What should you do if you're a sagger skin type?

If you're wondering how to slow down ageing for 'sagger' skin types, Dr Yalda also shared her advice on collagen and elastin loss, recommending specific cosmetic treatments that can be used to target lax skin on the face.

"Skin tightening treatments are usually the go-to for anyone that thinks their face has sagged," advised Dr Yalda, who recommended treatments such Morpheus 8 — a minimally invasive treatment that combines microneedling with radiofrequency.

"Often, patients may also need volumisation support to replace the volume loss in the mid-face from fat loss and bony loss in the lower face to improve the appearance," she added. This is where injectables treatments like fillers may come in, depending on your individual concerns.

ADVERTISEMENT

What about those who fit into sinker skin type?

When it comes to Dr Yalda's anti-ageing skincare tips for 'sinker' skin types, she shared that this specific concern will look different on everyone, and again — professional advice is advised for undergoing specific treatments to address the loss of volume and hollowing of the face, whether this be through injectable treatments (like fillers) or other modalities.

"If volume loss is an issue (sinker) then cosmetic volume replacement is the best way forward. A consult is needed with a cosmetic doctor to discuss this," said Dr Yalda.

What to do for wrinkler skin types.

In terms of how to address wrinkles in 'wrinkler' skin types, Dr Yalda shared options for both at-home skincare and in-clinic treatments.

"Wrinkles and lines need a combination of skincare at home (retinol, SPF, peptides and antioxidants such as vitamin C is a good start) and in-clinic treatments such as needling, chemical peels and laser resurfacing will definitely help," she explained.

The best way to identify skin ageing.

Overall, however, Dr Yalda told us that 'sinker', 'wrinkler' and 'sagger' are not specific categories she would use to assess her patient's face and identify how someone's skin will age.

"Instead of these categories, I usually put my patients into different ones: Lateral ageing (usually volume loss in the temples, slimmer face and more of a gaunt look) and central ageing (usually prominent nasolabial folds and heaviness to the lower face and jowls). I find that patients fit into these categories better," she said.

ADVERTISEMENT

"It is impossible to age without all three of these broad categories. The ageing process is complex and multifactorial."

When it comes to what professionals mainly pay attention to when assessing a patient's face, Dr Yalda said there are three main things she looks out for in her clients.

First of which is fat volume loss in the mid-face and temples. "Meaning our cheeks, apples and temples are not as perky as they used to be in our 20s," she shared.

She also looks for, "bony resorption (reduction) around the eyes, the corners of the nose and our mandible (jawline)." As she explained, this results in less structural support, leading to that 'sunken' look, seen with hollow eyes and a reduction in definition in our jawline.

Lastly, she's on the lookout for "reduction in collagen and elastin in our skin leading to wrinkling and static lines." Collagen being the stuff that plays a crucial role in strengthening the skin as well as providing elasticity and hydration (plump skin).

As Dr Yalda told me, the extent of collagen loss will depend on a variety of different lifestyle factors and genetics. But at the end of the day, one thing if for sure: "we cannot avoid wrinkles."

Are you a sinker, sagger or wrinkler? Share your thoughts in the comment section below.

Feature image: Getty.

Mamamia wants to hear about your financial wellbeing and how you feel about the future.Complete this short survey now to go in the running to win a $50 gift voucher.

00:00 / ???