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'I travel for a living and this little-known Asian destination is my hidden secret.'

Vietnam is the queen of South East Asia for Aussie travellers right now — and the stunning ancient town of Hoi An, with its colourful lanterns and traditional shop and houses, tops our bucket lists.

But while many tourists stay in or near Hoi An, if you want to escape the crowds and the chaos, get to know the locals and soak up the village vibes, then beachside An Bang — just 10 minutes down the road — is the place and the pace for you. Just don't tell anyone, okay?

My daughter and I fell in love with An Bang village when we lived in Hoi An a few years ago. We were travelling full-time and an old friend from school messaged me to come and stay for a while. We found a cheap guest house, I enroled Emmie in an international school, and we spent six incredible months settling in, exploring and making friends.

We loved it so much we returned for another stint the following year, and have been back every year since.

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Whilst the ancient town of Hoi An is a must-see, with its stunning Thu Bon river, ancient shop houses lit by coloured lanterns and myriad photo opportunities, its beauty and popularity means it's crowded with tourists and Instagrammers seeking the perfect photo, especially in the evenings.

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Woman sits in between lots of colourful lanterns in Hoi An.Image: supplied.

The secret is to stay in beautiful An Bang, with its long stretch of palm-lined white sand beach, where men still gather on tiny plastic stools in the evenings to chat and play Chinese chess, fishermen spend the nights at sea in their basket boats, and women sell fish, vegetables and flowers at the daily morning markets.

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It's so safe for women to wander here, for kids to ride bikes or walk to the corner store for an ice block, or up to the main street for a Nutella pancake, and no one hassles you for a morning price or to come into their shop.

It's the perfect spot to rest and relax, and take little trips to experience the more chaotic but stunning beauty of Hoi An while enjoying the village atmosphere, meeting and connecting with local families, and learning their stories.

A woman and man row in a basket boat.Image: supplied.

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I count many An Bang locals as true friends, from the beach vendors wandering the hot sand selling trinkets, to the restaurant owners and staff serving up some of the most delicious food I've ever tasted, and the ladies giving massages and traditional Vietnamese shampoos (with vigorous head scratching and yoghurt facial, you have to try it!).

Here's everything you need to know.

What to do in An Bang.

I start my days in An Bang with a sunrise walk along the beach — for the beauty and peace, and to catch a slice of local life.

Most Vietnamese people exercise and socialise outdoors during sunrise and sunset, so at 5:30am you'll see young men and women playing volleyball and soccer and splashing in the shallows, and older ladies and men stretching and covering their legs in sand (many believe it's good for circulation). It's such a joyful way to begin the day, and the sunrise is gorgeous too.

Next, I grab a coconut coffee from one of the little family cafes near the beach — my fave is Rua — and drink it from their colourful garden while I look out over the ocean.

Your hotel or guesthouse will include breakfast in your stay, but if you're craving a local brekkie, head up to the morning markets before 9am and grab some pho for around $1.60. The pretty bunting and bougainvillea-lined streets are so peaceful, and the sounds of roosters and the murmur from the markets as the sun continues to rise is always a pinch-me moment.

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Then it's back to the beach! An Bang Beach is one of the best, with its soft waves and clear water. Many restaurants rent sections of the sand and supply sun lounges for guests to use. While you don't have to pay for them, you do need to order a drink or some food while you're there. My favourite is Phuong's Beach Restaurant, owned and run by Phuong and her husband Phuong! They are the hardest working couple I know, and Phuong will be out at sunrise laying the mattresses out on the lounges and getting ready for a day or running around in the hot sun serving his guests.

A woman enjoys herself bare-foot on An Bang Beach.Image: Supplied.

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Phuong makes the best ban xiao (Vietnamese pancakes) and chicken and cashews I've ever eaten. In fact, their food is phenomenal, whether you're lying on the sun lounges or sitting in their restaurant up on a sandy hill, overlooking the water.

Phuong will pull out his big knife to cut open fresh coconuts for you, and you can order fresh juice or beers here — there's even a stash of stubby holders to keep them cold.

Vietnamese food and colourful cocktails plated on a table on the beach.Image: Supplied.

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This is where you will meet some of An Bang beach's best characters.

Cheap Charlie will appear in his sunnies, jeans and long sleeves, lugging his sunglasses board filled with real sunnies all the way from the ateliers of Paris to sell to you for a huge discount.

Moon and Lui will sit on the end on your sun lounge for a chat and sell you trinkets and bracelets from baskets they carry along the beach.

It costs less than the price of a coffee at home to support them, and it feels good too. They all work so hard in the hot sun to earn money to support their families and send their kids to school, so just take a few minutes from your time lazing on the beach to have a chat and grab some souvenirs.

Where else to eat in An Bang.

Just up the sandy path is An Bang Beach Village Restaurant, run by Dong and his wife. I absolutely love eating here — the lok lak beef is divine, as is the whole fried snapper, the tofu and eggplant hotpots, and well, everything. Dong learnt English listening to a radio station that played '60s music, so that's what you'll hear in his restaurant — although if you want to share your Spotify playlist he'll pop that on for you too.

The entrance to An Bang Beach Village: colourful pink flowers overflow off vintage buildings.Image: Supplied.

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Dong's father was a village fisherman and his earliest memories are of waiting on the sand for his dad to paddle the basket boat back to shore each morning. Some fish would be sold at the market and the rest would feed the family. This is still done today by local fishermen, and you'll see their basket boats pulled up on the beach. Mr Hoa's, the restaurant next door, puts up a fight for the best banh xeo in the village.

You'll find lots of little restaurants on the main street and along the beach, and western options too, like Mexican and burgers. Along the beachfront, you can find fresh seafood and lobster with garlic butter (around $50 for a whole lobster) and beautifully set-up beach clubs like Shore Club and Deckhouse.

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It's easy to grab cheap delicious food anywhere, and if I'm lying by the pool and feeling peckish, I'll jump on a bike and ride a few minutes down the main street, Nguyen Phan Vinh, and grab a pork banh mi for less than a dollar. There is nothing like it.

Massage, yoga and sound bowls.

You'll also find what feels like hundreds of spas in An Bang. They're everywhere because this is how many women set up their own businesses and make money for their families.

An hour massage is around $25, and prices are fairly standard throughout the village. My favourite is Phuong's Mandala, simply because Phuong is such a character. When I first met her, she had two puppies in nappies, and her son is named Tiger after the local beer. Every time I see her, she grabs my boobs and says how jealous she is, but in true Vietnamese style, she will also ask me how much weight I have gained and tell me I look old.

If you're keen to do some yoga classes, there are many studios around An Bang and in the rice paddies. You can also experience aerial yoga and sound bowls — and if you're staying in a villa, the sound bowls can come to you and you can do it in your pool.

There are little stores where you can grab whatever you need, and two ATMs, a pharmacy and a beautiful colourful little school that is so interesting to compare to our schools as you wander past — but please don't take photos of the children.

You don't even need to go into town to have tailoring done. Thuy at The Watermark Beachside Hotel used to work in one of the best tailors in town and can organise your outfits. You can get bikinis made at a couple of little stores along the beachfront — I have two and they're amazing and cost me $40 each.

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If you can drag yourself away from An Bang, set off to the coconut forest and sail along the river in a traditional basket boat (and try the Gangnam-style spinning). Take your hotel bikes and ride through the rice paddies, stopping at one of the rice paddy cafés and bars for spring rolls and coconut coffee — my favourite is Roving Chilltime.

I also love the cooking class at Red Lantern, but there are many you can try all over An Bang (Dong at An Bang Beach Village offers one too).

Vietnamese spring rolls on a small, clean plate.Image: supplied.

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Getting around is easy. Most hotels and guest houses will have complementary bikes (make sure to ask for helmets), and taxis and Grab cars are cheap. I've even gone on the back of a Grab motorbike — helmet included! You can also order little electric shuttles to and from Hoi An Ancient Town.

In the evening, lots of little bars come to life, some with live music and dancing. My faves are Double Cat, the Phoenix Hotel, and the Bungalow Beach Bar, with its swimming pool, live music and generous happy hour! And of course, Phuong's Beach Restaurant overlooking the beach.

Where to stay in An Bang.

When choosing where to stay, I suggest looking at hotels and guesthouses along the beach so you're close to the water and the village.

The Watermark Beachside Hotel is only steps from the beach and close to Phuong's, Dong's and the main street. Owned and run by the beautiful Thuy and her family in partnership with an Australian family, this nine-bedroom hotel is like a home away from home (and I host my women's group trips here).

A few footsteps towards the beach is The Linh Seaside Villa. It's just across from Phuong's Beach Restaurant and is a more budget option run by a lovely Vietnamese family, with big rooms and a swimming pool.

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Further down the road on the beachfront is the private Salt Seaside Villa, and a little further south you'll find Life Beach Villas, managed by the gorgeous Luan. It's where I host my family trips and, by coincidence, is parallel to Shore Club, whose staff will deliver cocktails and snacks right to you poolside.

If none of these suit, there are lots of fabulous guesthouses and hotels around — my tip is to look on the beach side of the main street, near to The Watermark.

As the sun descends at the end of the day, locals return to the beach and vendors pop up with tiny plastic stools and blankets for customers to sit on while they eat clam chowder and grilled snails served from big steaming pots.

On bigger holidays, families will bring BBQs to the beach and set up their own karaoke machines on the sand. They're so friendly, and may ask you to join them — I had the best time with a lovely family last year who asked me to sit with them, sing Tay Tay songs and eat together.

You will have a fabulous holiday in An Bang, and I hope you get to know some of the beautiful characters who call this gorgeous village home.

Be sure to tell them Evie sent you!

Evie loves An Bang so much she takes group trips here for mum and kids, and women. Find out more at mumpacktrips.com You can follow Evie at @mumpacktravel.

Feature Image: Supplied.

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