travel

'I've found a remote, underrated town that ticks every family holiday box and looks like paradise.'

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I recently went on a family holiday with my kids and mum, and this was not your typical beach town vacay.

It offered something truly magical: the chance to get up close with some of Australia's most incredible wildlife, all while enjoying pristine beaches and outback adventures that felt like stepping into a nature documentary.

We were so close to humpback whales you could see the barnacles on them. We swam alongside sea turtles, spotted stingrays and dolphins, and watched in wonder as manta rays glided beneath us.

Watch: Travel expert Amy Clark's travel pack hacks. Post continues below.


Video: Mamamia

But it's not just the marine life that's incredible. Emus literally walk down the streets and cause traffic jams — which we found absolutely hilarious.

There are adorable rock wallabies native to the area, and eagles soar overhead as commonly as seagulls do in Sydney.

During wildflower season, you'll find purple fields that look like they're straight out of a Taylor Swift music video.

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Welcome to the group chat, the remote Western Australian town of Exmouth.

Getting there and getting around.

photo of The Big Prawn Exmouth, emu, a termite mound and wildflowers The Big Prawn and Emu (Icons only) Supplied. and a termite mound and wildflowers Image: Frances Andrijich (nanna)

Exmouth is a 13-hour drive north of Perth, WA, or a much more manageable two-hour flight. Perth is your gateway and the only direct flight available, so we flew from Sydney to Perth, then Perth to Learmonth Airport (Exmouth).

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One-way flights typically range from $200–$400, depending on timing and how far ahead you book.

You'll need to hire a car if you're flying in. There aren't many taxis, and it's very hot — you don't want to be walking long distances with kids in that heat.

Rental options are available both at Learmonth Airport and in Exmouth town centre, and they generally range from about $100 to $175 a day, depending on the vehicle type, rental duration, and season.

Pro tip: Book flights and car hire at least 10 months in advance for peak season (June-August). Trust me on this one — everything fills up fast.

Where to stay: options for every family.

Bullara Stays and Mantarays Resort Exmouth L-R: Bullara Stays, red dirt and farm vibes, to pool and beach Mantarays Resort. Image: Supplied

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We stayed with my gorgeous cousin at her house, but there's accommodation to suit every budget and style.

Most families opt for the Big 4 holiday parks, which perfectly match the laid-back vibe of Exmouth, and are great for kids. Costs begin at around $70 per night for an unpowered site up to $310 per night for a deluxe family cabin.

Set on 250,000 acres of red sand and bush land, Bullara Station Stay is an authentic outback working farm with the quirkiest, coolest set up, the most Instagram-able outdoor showers, and the best meat pies I've ever tasted. Costs for unpowered sites begin at $38 per night, and go up to $500 per night for self-contained cottages.

If you're looking to splurge, Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort has luxury pool access that's right on the beach. Costs range from $374 per night for a standard king room, to $999 per night for a 2-Bedroom Beachfront Bungalow.

Essential booking advice: Reserve accommodation and any vehicle rentals at least six months ahead for peak season. This cannot be overstated — Exmouth gets booked out quickly.

We also camped for two nights at the iconic and beautiful Cape Range National Park. You can read my full recap on it here.

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The experiences your kids (and you) will never forget.

Salty Hearts Whale watching and swimming with sea turtles ExmouthSalty Hearts Whale watching and swimming with sea turtles (magical). Image Supplied.

Swimming with whale sharks.

Exmouth is one of the few places on Earth where you can swim with these gentle giants. They don't have teeth and feed on krill, not people, so it is safe! And apparently, it is life-changing to swim alongside something of that size and beauty.

My cousin (local knowledge) recommends 3Islands Whale Shark Dive. They use a dedicated spotter plane to look for the sharks, and the boats have shaded seating, on-board toilets, and friendly and experienced crew.

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This adventure typically runs for about nine hours, from 7:00 am to 4:30 pm, and costs $550 per adult and $500 per child.

July and August offer the highest success rates for seeing and swimming with them (over 90 per cent).

Whale watching like nowhere else.

photo of a humpback whale in Exmouth GulfHumpback Whales in Exmouth Gulf. Image: Frances Andrijich (nanna)

We took a sunset cruise on my cousin's boat in Exmouth Gulf, a crucial nursery area for humpback whales. I lost count of how many whales we saw in the few hours we were out on the water.

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Watching a mother and baby whale nurse and then swim right past our boat was genuinely one of the most magical moments of my life, and seeing my kids' faces and our combined squeal of surprise and delight made it even more special.

Between late July and October, there are so many humpbacks, and they come in so close you can see them from the shoreline.

You can book a private charter for up to 12 people with Kyra from Salty Hearts Freediving (tell her I sent you) from $1,100 for three hours.

They also offer snorkel and/or whale watching tours from $120 per person, and freediving courses for $680 for a three-day beginner course.

Kyra is a real life walking mermaid and will open her arms to you like family. She's lived there for over 10 years, so she has all the local knowledge and knows all the best spots.

Snorkelling adventures the whole family can enjoy.

Turquoise Bay, Trisel Beach, ExmouthL-R: Stunning Turquoise Bay, and watching turtles rest and "nest" at Trisel Beach. Image: Supplied

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What makes Exmouth special is the direct shore access to Ningaloo Reef — no long boat trips required, which makes it perfect for kids and novice snorklers.

Osprey Bay is where we swam alongside sea turtles, some of them hanging around for 15 minutes. These gentle creatures were so relaxed, and allowed us to maintain a respectful distance while my kids watched in absolute wonder. One turtle was as big as my 10-year-old!

Turquoise Bay is often celebrated and voted the best beach in the world, and for good reason. Not only is it visually stunning, it also offers the famous "drift snorkel". You walk 100 metres south, enter the water, then float north with the gentle current over vibrant coral gardens. It's effortless and absolutely stunning — perfect for families.

My cousin took my 10-year-old and her 2-year-old out on her see-through, stand up paddle board, and they had the best time observing the scenery, a turtle, and the most gorgeous spray of colourful tropical fish.

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Turtle nesting magic.

Trisel Beach is one of the most significant turtle nesting sites along the Ningaloo Coast. From October through April, this vital breeding ground welcomes endangered sea turtles including green, flatback, loggerhead, hawksbill, and olive ridley species.

We saw about 30 turtles mating right on the shoreline. Sure, it felt a little intimate, but we were so in awe seeing that many turtles up close that we could barely speak.

Depending on when you visit (October-April), you might see nesting or even baby turtles making their first journey to the sea.

Family-friendly dining and experiences.

Whalebone Brewing Co and Whalers Restaurant L-R: Whalebone Brewing Co and Whalers Restaurant. Image Supplied

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Potshot Hotel Resort (also another accommodation option) has a swimming pool right in the beer garden, which is genius for hot days. Kids can swim while grown-ups relax and set in for a long lunch, no screens required.

Whalebone Brewing Co was a hit. They had great pizzas and burgers, plus a handball court where the kids lined up and played against other kids for hours. Plus, there's a giant sandpit area for littler ones.

WA always knows how to entertain kids at its venues so that the grown-ups can play.

Social Society Cafe (Soso) Vegan and vegetarian menu, excellent coffee with a lifestyle and wellness hub selling beautiful products and pre-loved and (really chic) new fashion.

Whalers Restaurant This was our fancy last night dinner treat, and the restaurant truly delivers on fresh, local seafood and produce with honest flavours in a relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere that made it the perfect way to end our incredible trip.

When to visit Exmouth.

Vlamingh Head Lighthouse ExmouthIconic view from Vlamingh Head Lighthouse. Image Supplied

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April to October offers the best weather (24°C to 30°C), though it feels much hotter due to the dry, arid heat.

Summer temperatures can reach 50°C, so the cooler months are definitely your best bet for a comfortable family holiday.

You will need to slather on the sunscreen, pack hats and rashies, and invest in some shade for the beaches. The sun is incredibly harsh with an intense heat that's unlike anything you'll experience in most Australian cities.

The verdict.

Exmouth ticks every box for an unforgettable family holiday: incredible wildlife encounters, pristine beaches, adventure, and that sense of being somewhere truly special. It's remote enough to feel like a real escape, but accessible enough for families with proper planning.

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If you're looking for a destination that will give your kids stories to tell for years to come, Exmouth should be at the top of your list.

This is the kind of family holiday that reminds you why Australia is such an incredible country to explore as a family.

people on a whale boat charter in ExmouthSalty Hearts, full hearts. Image: Frances Andrijich (nanna)

Feature Image: Supplied.

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