On a hot day in February, an unexpectedly high king tide caused rising water to lap at the beds in the maternity wing of the Beito Hospital on the Pacific atoll nation of Tarawa, Kiribati.
In these beds, women were either in the process of giving birth or recovering from labour. They and their newborn babies were forced to relocate further inland, to a sports stadium. Women and babies had to share the stadium with other hospital patients, and with no time to assemble screens, there was no privacy – but at least they were safe for now.
The king tide came shortly before Cyclone Pam brought severe damage to Kiribati and utter devastation to Vanuatu in March. It was unusual, because it rose three metres high on a clear, calm and sunny day, and came from the lagoon rather than the open ocean side of the island.
This is one of the stories that I heard on my recent trip to the Pacific Island nation. I was there as a guest of Pacific Calling Partnership, to understand first hand the impacts of climate change on one of the most vulnerable nations on earth. Tarawa atoll is the capital of Kiribati and is where I spent most of my time. It is only three metres above sea level at its highest point, 45 km long at the widest point and is densely populated with 55,000 inhabitants.
Kiribati is a string of 32 atolls and a coral island spread out along the equator to the North East of Australia. I was overwhelmed by the resilience, optimism, warmth and generosity of the people and the richness of their culture. It is seafaring nation and one where people have deep connections to the land – land is identity.