beauty

'I'm a beauty writer and this is what I say when people ask me how to use chemical exfoliants.'

MYER
Thanks to our brand partner, MYER

I get it. The word 'chemical' in skincare can seem like a very confusing world.

Well, let me hold your hand and guide you through this journey, together.

Over in skincare-land, chemical exfoliation is having a massive moment (again). AHAs, BHAs, PHAs. Face, body and now, lips (hello you, The Ordinary PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum, we'll get to you later). 

And I would not blame you if you were screaming at your screen, "WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?"

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Never fear, because it's really not as complicated as it sounds. But, it's important to do some research and figure out which type of exfoliant is right for you and your skin before you start dousing your face in potions. 

Allow me to make it easy for you. Here's your handy dandy cheat sheet to help you decode.

How chemical exfoliants differ from physical exfoliants.

For some of us, your idea of exfoliants might have involved some type of sugar or coffee scrub. Physical exfoliants are still having their time to frolick in the sun, continuing to be a popular way to scrub off dead skin cells from the surface of the skin.

The reason plenty of us are talking chemical exfoliation is because they are a much less-abrasive option.

The part where people get confused is choosing the right exfoliant for them. 

So, let's break it down.

Firstly, AHAs. You're probably thinking: 'AHA? Isn't that just what a detective says when he cracks the case?'

Well, no. AHAs (aka alpha hydroxy acids) are one of the most common of the chemical exfoliant family. You might know them as glycolic or lactic acids.

They perform their magic on the surface layers of the skin — exfoliating to visibly even skin tone and texture, and soften fine lines. This makes them handy for a whole variety of skin types.

Oily skin girlies, it's your turn. BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) are an oil-soluble exfoliant. I know that probably means very little to you right now (I'm almost there! Promise!), but basically that means they are easily able to mix with our skin's natural oils (sebum) and penetrate the pores. Not only do they help to dissolve any sneaky blockages within your pores, they also exfoliate that outer layer to make way for smoother, more radiant-looking skin.

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You might have heard of a little baby called salicylic acid that belongs in the BHA family? This one is for you. 

Now, we've made our way down the alphabet to the lesser known chemical exfoliant, PHAs. Ah, PHAs, our forgotten middle child, I see you.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight, which means they work a little slower, making them perfect for more delicate skin like our lips, or people who sit more on the sensitive side.

The hero of the PHA fam is gluconolactone. Remember that glorious word for later! Basically, it's an exfoliator that attracts water. Hello, hydration. 

What skin types can benefit from a chemical exfoliant?

While we're stockpiling cleansers, moisturisers and serums, exfoliants often find themselves left out of our bathroom cabinets. 

People are often in one of two camps — they have no idea what they are, or they're afraid of what they might do.

Luckily for, well, everyone, you'll find that most skin types are suitable for chemical exfoliants — though, sensitive skin types should be aware that not all chemical exfoliants will work for them! (Patch testing and slow uptake will be your best friends).

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Now you know who's who in the zoo, you can slot this important step into your routine. 

Choosing the right chemical exfoliant.

You're almost there. You've learnt all the basics, and it's now time for you to pick out the chemical exfoliant that works best for you.

Remember what we spoke about?

I'd recommend you take a look at The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner if your exfoliation needs are smoothing and brightening. This AHA is a suitable add to your PM skin routine due to sun sensitivity, and uses a Tasmanian Pepperberry derivative that helps reduce irritation common with exfoliation. Plus, it's multi-purpose and can be used on your scalp to hydrate and rebalance. Where do I sign?

If your skin is on the oily side, The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is your go-to gal. This water-based serum targets any signs of congestion or textural irregularities, making way for clearer and brighter skin. Just a few drops in your nighttime routine is all you need. Just make sure the other ingredients in your routine will play nice with this BHA. 

Your lips can benefit from a little exfoliating lovin' too. 

When I heard that The Ordinary had released a new PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum that's barrier-friendly and suitable for sensitive skin, I immediately had to give it a go.

With 5 per cent gluconolactone and 1.5 per cent alpha hydroxy acids to smooth and hydrate lips, the PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum is a gentle, non-abrasive way to exfoliate that promotes skin renewal and texture over time. 

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Split image. On the left, the bottle of PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum with dropper squeezing. On the right, the serum on the back of the writer's hand.Image: Supplied.

This formulation also includes a high concentration of glycerin to retain moisture, as well as ectoin to support the skin barrier and offer long-term hydration.

After a couple of weeks of applying this before bed, my lips are looking the shiniest and plumpest I've seen in a while, so take this as your sign to remember your lips in your routine.

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The writer Lucy is wearing a white blouse and holding the dropper serum to her face, looking at the camera.Image: Supplied.

How to start using chemical exfoliants.

If you're new to chemical exfoliants, you should treat them as you would any new skincare product.

First, do a patch test to make super sure it's suitable for your skin. And then, introduce the product, as I like to say, low and slow.

Also — promise me you won't forget your SPF during the day? All of this exfoliation can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

And that's that! Science lesson is officially over.

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People are surprised when I tell them science-backed skincare doesn't need to break the bank to work, just do a little digging to figure out what's best for you and your skin, and you're on your way to being your best radiant self. 

Shop The Ordinary PHA 5% Lip Exfoliating Serum in-store or online at Myer.

Feature image: Supplied.

MYER
Shop The Ordinary PHA 5% Lip Exfoliating Serum in-store or online at Myer.com.au

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