travel

'Everyone is going to Taormina, but I found an even better destination just two hours away.'

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There's no denying it — Sicily has fast become a European go-to for travellers chasing the best of the Mediterranean

I mean we're talking cute Italian streets, gelato, beautiful beaches, history, hikes: it's got the lot. 

But when most people head to Sicily, they go to the places with airports, namely, Taormina and Palermo. 

I've been to both and while they do have charm, they're packed to the brim and overpriced. 

Thanks to shows like The White Lotus, tourists flock to Isola Bella and the Four Seasons for their 'iconic' snaps. But Sicily's real beauty lies beyond the crowds.

On my road trip I found so many beautiful smaller gems, particularly Cefalù, Scopello and San Vito Lo Capo. 

And if I'm honest with myself, it's Cefalù that stole my heart. 

Here's your complete guide to planning a trip to Cefalù—and why it should top your European wish list.

It's big enough, but also small enough. 

The amazing view of the Rocca mountain from the sea wall.The amazing view of the Rocca mountain from the sea wall. Image: Cassandra Green.

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Cefalù has that rare sweet spot: there's heaps to do, but it never feels overwhelming. 

You can explore historic sites, hike the 'Rocca' mountain, swim in the sea, go shopping, eat incredible food—and still be walking everywhere in sandals. 

The old town is compact and gorgeous, full of winding alleys, street cats and hanging laundry, but it opens up onto wide promenades, beaches and bustling piazzas.

There are plenty of brilliant local boutiques, with everything from handmade jewellery to curated Italian fashion. And unlike Taormina, which can feel more like a film set than a town, Cefalù still feels real

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The cobbled streets and seaside restaurants in Cafalu.The cobbled streets and seaside restaurants are to die for. Image: Cassandra Green.

You'll hear just as much Italian as English and find family-run trattorias and wine bars where the menus haven't been translated — yet.

It's easy to get there — we flew into Catania and drove two hours. Just be warned: Italian drivers are intense, and Cefalù's medieval centre is a car-free ZTL zone.

I'd recommend staying for at least three days, but honestly, a lazy week is ideal. You want enough time to soak in the rhythm of the place — morning swims, long lunches, and golden hours with an Aperol in hand.

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And please, talk to the locals. That's how we met Antonio, who worked at Kalapinta Craft Beer and became our unofficial guide to the town. He gave us all the best food tips and hidden gems, and it completely changed our trip. The people here aren't just friendly — they're warm, funny, and genuinely happy to share their home with you.

My friend and I had the time of our lives here, and shoutout to this Cannoli shop (mentioned below). Image: Cassandra Green

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What to do in Cefalù.

Hike La Rocca di Cefalù.

Rocca mountain in Cefalù.The hike up the Rocca mountain was well worth it. Image: Cassandra Green

It might look like a beast from below, but this cliffside hike is surprisingly manageable — even if you're not a mountain person. The trail winds up to castle ruins and panoramic views over the town and sea. The payoff is worth the sweat.

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Swim at stunning beaches.

The gorgeous Spiaggia del Porto VecchioThe gorgeous Spiaggia del Porto Vecchio. Image: Cassandra Green

Cefalù's beaches are some of the most beautiful in Sicily, with multiple swimming spots to choose from.

Spiaggia del Porto Vecchio is a highlight: smaller, a little chillier, but picture-perfect.

Bring a towel, ditch the sandy feet before leaving (seriously — locals will let you know), and soak up the sun with a cocktail in hand from one of the beachfront bars.

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Aperitivo with a view.

DUOMO Cucina & CantinaWe got apertivo at the DUOMO Cucina & Cantina. Image: Cassandra Green

The piazza in front of the Duomo di Cefalù (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is one of the most magical spots for an early evening drink. Grab an aperitivo, listen to the live music and take in the soaring Norman architecture.

Wander, shop, repeat.

The cobbled streets in CefalùLook at these cobbled streets! Image: Cassandra Green.

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Cefalù's cobbled streets are a joy to get lost in. You'll find boutique stores selling handmade ceramics, linen clothing, jewellery, and locally-crafted souvenirs — ideal if you're looking to bring home something other than a magnet.

Run (or stroll) the promenade.

The promenade in CefalùI had the best run along the promenade, and the view of the Rocca coming into town is unbeatable. Image: Cassandra Green

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The seafront promenade is ideal for an early morning jog or a golden hour walk. It's flat, breezy and offers a perfect view of the coastline curving into the old town.

Check out the beachside bars.

While many bars were still closed early in the season, locals (like Antonio!) say the beach clubs and bars really come alive in summer. Expect music, cocktails, and that buzzy seaside atmosphere once peak season kicks off.

A note on Riposo (like a siesta).

Shops and restaurants often close in the mid-afternoon — so plan around these hours. It's a great excuse to swim, nap, or sit somewhere scenic with a gelato.

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Where to stay in Cefalù.

The Airbnb was actually insanely beautiful and well priced. Image: Cassandra Green

One of the best things about Cefalù is that accommodation tends to be better value than in Sicily's more hyped destinations. Whether you're after a charming B&B by the beach or a boutique hotel tucked inside a medieval building, you'll find a range of options that won't blow the budget.

We recommend staying above the old town, on the far side of La Rocca, particularly around Via Giudecca and Via Candeloro. It's peaceful, scenic, and still just a short and easy walk into the heart of town.

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We stayed in an Airbnb with a sweeping sea view — and it was so worth it. Waking up to that vista made the trip feel even more special.

What to eat in Cefalù

I need to flag that I am gluten-free, so a lot of my explorations revolved around whether or not I had options. 

In saying that, I travelled with my friend who is a serious foodie — so all of these spots are approved for people without allergies too! A win-win. 

Here were our favourites. 

Kalapinta Craft Beer.

Kalapinta Craft Beer.Image: Cassandra Green/TripAdvisor

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This was hands-down our favourite spot in Cefalù. We arrived late and tired after a nearly-midnight airport drive, and Kalapinta was the only place still open. That's where we met Antonio — the lovely bartender who welcomed us like old friends and gave us the local's guide to the town. We came back every night after that.

The wine was delicious, the warm air wrapped around us, and the whole place had the kind of glow you only find on holiday. It honestly became the highlight of our trip.

Ristorante Antares.

Ristorante AntaresThis potato pizza and gluten-free tiramisu are forever in my heart. Image: Cassandra Green

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You can't beat the location — right on the promenade with views of the ocean and a breeze that makes you want to stay for hours. Their gluten-free menu is incredible, with more pizza options than I've ever seen (GF or not), and the staff were genuinely lovely. It's a great spot for dinner after a beach day.

TINCHITE' Taverna & Putia.

TINCHITE' Taverna & PutiaMussells? Pasta Alla Norma? Obsessed. Image: Cassandra Green

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This was one of the more elegant places we tried — very elevated feel and a great atmosphere for a proper sit-down meal. I could tell the food was thoughtfully done and people around us looked very happy. It's worth booking for a fancier night out.

La Trinacria (Enoteca).

La Trinacria (Enoteca).Umm have you ever seen such a beautiful food and wine emporium? Image: Cassandra Green

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La Trinacria felt like stumbling into a delicious little secret. It's an enoteca with an amazing selection of wine and cured meats — perfect for a pre-dinner snack or a lazy afternoon. There's so much history packed into this place too, like you're eating inside someone's family legacy.

Via Roma Vecchia Ristorante.

Via Roma Vecchia RistoranteThis pizza was actually sent from heaven. Image: Cassandra Green.

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One of those perfect holiday moments happened here. We strolled over from the beach, sat down with a view of the sea, and had one of the most enjoyable lunches of our trip. Great food, friendly service, and the kind of setting that makes you pause and think: is this real life? Plus great gluten-free options, of course.

Ristorante al Gabbiano.

Ristorante al GabbianoWe played Monopoly Deal while we sipped on Hugo Spritz's. Image: Cassandra Green.

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I'm still dreaming about the pasta alla Norma from this place. Perfectly cooked, rich in flavour, and the kind of dish that makes you go silent mid-bite. I paired it with a Hugo spritz (my new obsession) and loved that they had great gluten-free options too. A super relaxed spot with a front-row seat to the sea.

Ristorante Tentazioni Pasticceria Gelateria Giuseppe Serio.

Ristorante Tentazioni Pasticceria Gelateria Giuseppe SerioI did a happy dance trying my first gluten-free cannoli. Image: Cassandra Green.

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If you're a morning coffee person, this is where you want to end up after a walk on the promenade. Their pastries are amazing and they do a gluten-free cannoli that's somehow even better than the regular ones. It was such a treat to find a GF version that didn't feel like a compromise.

Cannolí Cefalù.

The name says it all — this place is all about the cannoli. Their gluten-free version was divine, and if you're not GF, there's also gelato that looked seriously good. It's a cute little stop after the beach or after shopping to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Sfrigola Cefalù.

This one's not gluten-free, but if you can eat arancini, run, don't walk. It's a cult-favourite takeaway spot and exactly the kind of street food Sicily is known for. Crispy, golden, and piping hot — I'm so jealous I couldn't try one.

DUOMO Cucina & Cantina.

We came here for aperitivo and stayed for the people-watching. It's right in front of the Duomo, so you can sip your Aperol Spritz while the square fills with music and energy from buskers and late-night wanderers. One of those places where you feel completely in the moment.

The World Without Gluten (shop).

This store was a total gem. It's full of gluten-free snacks, pastas, and frozen Italian goodies you won't find in Australia. If you're staying in an Airbnb and have an oven, definitely pick up a few things to try at home. I stocked up like a madwoman.

So why should you go to Cefalù?

CefaluIt's so hard to beat Cefalu. It felt like a home away from home. Image: Cassandra Green.

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Cefalù feels like a warm, generous friend — welcoming you with open arms and giving you everything you didn't know you needed: dramatic coastal views, golden beaches, mountain hikes, unforgettable food, and some of the kindest people you'll ever meet.

It's the kind of place that invites you to slow down. To learn a few words of Italian. To linger a little longer over your morning espresso. Don't mistake its laid-back charm for simplicity — Cefalù will take your breath away when you least expect it.

Featured image: Cassandra Green.

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