travel

'I've been to Bali three times, but this tiny Aussie town topped it for a tropical winter escape.'

On a recent work trip, I stepped off the plane (in tracksuit pants and a blazer from icy Sydney) and was immediately hit with a whoosh of balmy, humid, heavy heat.

Which you might think is unpleasant. But when winter is around the corner, and you have just come out of a week of chilly rain? It was more than welcome.

It was my first time in Cairns, and it had already won me over.

The other thing I noticed when leaving the airport was just how much the tropical hills and rainforests reminded me of Bali. (except without the chaotic traffic and that nagging worry about Bali belly).

It felt relaxed, like I was in another tropical part of the world — but I hadn't even needed my passport or suffered through a lengthy international flight. And it was 28 degrees — in May. Lush.

Watch: Modern Etiquette: Travel. Post continues below.


Video: Mamamia

Where to stay in Cairns.

I stayed in a serviced apartment at Mantra Esplanade. It was conveniently right in the guts of the city with everything on my doorstep and had beautiful views of the mountains and plenty of space.

The cost of a serviced apartment here ranges from $232–$258 per night.

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Mantra Esplanade serviced apartment Cairns Mantra Esplanade serviced apartment with a view! Image: Supplied.

I discovered Cairns is a popular place for backpackers! They know the beachy, tropical and dollar-savvy places to go. Dorm beds in hostels start as low as $8 per night, with private rooms averaging $55 per night.

On the other end of the spectrum are five-star hotels that average $252–$324 per night, depending on the season and property. With nearly 200 accommodation options, there's something for every traveller, whether you're seeking a cheap and cheerful stay or a high-end tropical escape.

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Best places to eat.

Cairns surprised me with its broad culinary offerings for such a tiny town. There are 180 cafés and 55 restaurants. The food scene is relaxed and tropical, with many venues taking advantage of local produce from the Atherton Tablelands and the Coral Sea.

They've got everything from waterfront seafood restaurants and bustling Esplanade eateries to hidden laneway gems and family-run favourites. It's especially known for its fresh seafood, creative tropical twists, and a laid-back dining vibe that matches its coastal lifestyle.

man sitting at Hemmingways Breweries / view from the rooftop of Rocco by CrystabrookImage: Hemingways Brewery @keisuke_minami73 /Rocco by Crystalbrook @Crystalbrookcollection

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Hemingways Brewery.

This independent craft brewery produces outstanding beers and sits right on the waterfront. The food was delicious with snacks and starters ranging from $12-$22 and mains ranging from $26-$48.

The seafood platter for two reminded me of the famous seafood in Jimbaran Bay, but without the sandy feet or persistent beach vendors.

Rocco by Crystalbrook.

This is the highest rooftop bar and restaurant in Cairns, perched atop the Crystalbrook Riley hotel. It boasts 270-degree panoramic views over Cairns city and the Coral Sea, making it the go-to spot for sunset cocktails or a stylish night out.

Signature dishes include burnt eggplant, baharat lamb and pine nut cigars and Daintree barramundi fillet — delicious!

The menu offers modern Middle Eastern dishes with a strong focus on share plates and local produce. Prices range from $8–$26 for individual dishes, with set menus at $49–$69 per person.

Where to play.

Cairns Esplanade Lagoon side by side man and woman after swimming Swimming at Cairns Esplanade Lagoon. Image: Supplied.

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Cairns Esplanade Lagoon and Boardwalk.

One thing my dad warned me about — but that didn't really click until I got there — was that you can't swim at the beach. The city's waterfront is a muddy brown estuary, which is prime habitat for saltwater crocodiles. It's also home to dangerous marine stingers, including box jellyfish and irukandji.

But Cairns has a brilliant solution: The Esplanade Lagoon is a free, saltwater lagoon with sandy edges, lifeguards, and plenty of space for families and sun-seekers.

It's right in the heart of the city, surrounded by parklands, walking tracks, and public art. This is where I went swimming at dusk and dawn (safely away from the crocs!). They had water aerobics classes, beautiful views, great people-watching and it was just a major vibe.

There are safe, patrolled swimming beaches with stinger nets about a 20-minute drive north from the city. I didn't feel the need. I just loved that lagoon.

Mexicairns.

The venue is packed with retro games like bowling, darts, and ping-pong, making it perfect for groups, date nights, or corporate events.

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You can sip on high-end cocktails paired with Mexican-inspired food, all set in an Insta-worthy venue. After 6pm it's 18 plus only, but you can take the kids in the day!

What to do.

Great Barrier Reef Tours.

I didn't have enough time for these adventures as I was there for work, but will absolutely be doing these next time I visit! From snorkelling and scuba diving to glass-bottom boat tours, the reef offers breathtaking marine life and coral vistas. Choose from day trips or extended live-aboard adventures.

The exact travel time depends on the type of boat, and weather conditions, but most day trips to the popular outer reef sites are around 90 minutes each way from Cairns Marina.

drone footage of great barrier reef side by side next to someone scuba diving with a turtle This will be me at my next visit. Image: Instagram @greatbarrierreeftourscairns

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Daintree Rainforest and Cape Tribulation.

The world's oldest tropical rainforest, just a couple of hours north of Cairns. Guided tours take you through lush jungle, across the Daintree River, and to the pristine beaches of Cape Tribulation, where rainforest meets reef.

Kuranda Scenic Railway and Skyrail Rainforest Cableway.

This iconic journey takes you from Cairns up to the mountain village of Kuranda. Enjoy panoramic rainforest views, waterfalls, and the vibrant Kuranda markets. The Skyrail offers a unique perspective gliding above the canopy. I can't wait to try it!

Best time to visit:

The dry season from May to October offers warm, sunny days, minimal rainfall, and lower humidity—perfect for outdoor activities and reef adventures. This makes it the perfect winter escape for those of us stuck in cold, chilly southern cities.

Don't get me wrong — I still love Bali. It will always have a special place in my heart. But for a hassle-free tropical escape during the Australian winter, Cairns offers all the warmth, beauty and relaxation without the overseas travel complications.

The best part? You're supporting local tourism while enjoying a world-class destination right in our backyard. Sometimes the best tropical escapes aren't found overseas, but in our own beautiful country.

Feature Image: Supplied.

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