beauty

A dermatologist just rated the buzziest 'anti-ageing' skincare ingredients from best to worst.

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From salom sperm to Botox, LED light therapy and microneedling, the list of trendy anti-ageing treatments, ingredients and procedures is endless.

And while we're all for ageing gracefully, we're also not afraid of a little anti-ageing intel.

Is this serum actually worth $866 because of one ingredient? Post continues below.


Video via Mamamia.

On a recent episode of Well podcast, dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald rated all the buzziest skincare ingredients, and we were all ears.

So, read on to find out which ingredients are actually worth your time (and money).

Best anti-ageing ingredients, from best to worst.

1. Retinoids.

Dermatologist rating: 10 out of 10.

It goes without saying that Dr Cara rated the entire retinoid family (including retinol, retinaldehyde, and prescription forms) a solid 10 out of 10.

"It is definitely the ingredient that has the strongest evidence for reducing signs of photo aging, but most of that does come from the prescription form."

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Although weaker forms can be extrapolated to over-the-counter products, she added:

"Go slowly, go carefully, but go consistently. We get more benefits with one year, two years, three years, five years with retinols or retinoids. So stick with them rather than swapping and changing and giving up every time you get an irritation."

2. Niacinamide.

Dermatologist rating: 9 out of 10.

Niacinamide has many proven benefits, depending on your skin.

"It can inhibit pigmentation, it definitely helps with barrier repair, reduces inflammation, and offers some degree of photo protection as well. It's tolerated really by all skin types and all skin types will benefit from it, so it's a great ingredient."

3. Ceramides.

Dermatologist rating: 9 out of 10.

Ceramides are natural lipids in the skin that act as a barrier, keeping hydration in and irritants out.

"People who have naturally dry skin, eczema-prone skin, are lacking in ceramides," Dr Cara said. "They can actually replenish the natural lipids in the skin to help improve our skin barrier and reduce the water loss, what we call transepidermal water loss from the skin."

4. Antioxidants.

Dermatologist rating: 8–9 out of 10.

This category includes ingredients like vitamins C and E, and green tea extracts.

"Not all antioxidants are made equal. The ones that work well and have good scientific data behind them work very well at reducing environmental damage to the skin by mopping up free radicals. Because of that, they can improve the appearance of the skin and also reduce future signs of aging," Dr Cara explained.

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"But you really need to find formulations that are scientifically proven because just having those ingredients in your bottle does not necessarily do anything."

5. Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) and alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs).

Dermatologist rating: 6–7 out of 10.

BHAs, like salicylic acid, are fat-soluble and excellent for congested or acne-prone skin.

"They find the oily part of the skin, track down the pore and help unclog the pore."

AHAs are water-soluble, making them great exfoliants that strip off dead skin cells and stimulate your own hyaluronic acid.

"While they're both very effective, a lot of people get in trouble with causing an irritant dermatitis or inflammation by overdoing the acids," Dr Cara warned.

6. Hyaluronic acid.

Dermatologist rating: 4–5 out of 10.

Hyaluronic acid is celebrated for hydration, but in terms of anti-ageing, Dr Cara said it's overhyped.

"It's probably a slightly overhyped ingredient because hyaluronic acid needs to be held into the skin to be effective at all. So on its own, it doesn't do that much — it's going to evaporate off," she explained.

"If we include it in a lot of our other skincare products, it will actually hold that hydration into the skin so long as it is sealed in. But on its own, it doesn't do a lot, and in some people it can even be irritating, believe it or not."

Want to listen to the full episode? Check it out below. Or, you can also watch You Beauty on YouTube.

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Well, Mamamia's new health brand for women , is shaped by the health experiences of women just like you. Sign up to the Well newsletter to receive your weekly dose of trusted health expertise without the medical jargon, ask a question or share your story. You can also listen to the latest podcast episode below.

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