OPINION: I'm a beauty writer. Here's what no one's saying about your favourite dupes.

The beauty world is no stranger to trends and new product launches. 

But the astronomical virality that a product can now achieve through platforms like TikTok has started to completely change the game, particularly when it comes to dupes.

A single creator or influencer can cause a product to go viral and completely sell it out, sometimes for months on end. Unable to get their hands on the original product, or simply eager to participate in the hype, many turn to a "dupe" version of it. 

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Now don't get me wrong - I personally love how dupes contribute to the democratisation of beauty.

A good dupe often performs or looks similar to the original, but normally for a lesser price, making it much easier for us beauty lovers to take part in a trend or try something new. 

Plus, we all know that a luxe price tag does not always guarantee a better product; you can absolutely pick up gorgeous formulas for an affordable price.  

If you had a beloved product that has been discontinued, a dupe may help ease the pain by taking its place in your routine. (RIP to all the products that earned a place in our hearts before being cruelly sent to the beauty graveyard).  

It might also be the answer if you’re wishing to try a particular product or trend when the original seems to be forever sold out - I’m looking at you, Drunk Elephant D-Bronzi Drops.  

However, as we continue to see the rise and rise of dupes, it definitely raises a few questions about the downsides.

Some people are concerned that rather than providing an alternative to purchase, dupes are contributing to increased consumerism and a ‘more is more’ approach. The cheaper price point may encourage the buyer to pick up an array of shades, rather than the original one that was desired.   

That’s not to say that a more affordable option means poorer eco ethics, just that our attitude about how we purchase them may change when faced with a price tag that is half or even a tenth of the price.

Instead of ‘making do’ with what we already own, we may be more easily tempted away from what we truly need or will use. 

Another interesting point has arisen about the originality of ideas, and sparks a conversation similar to those being had about the impact of AI on the arts, or fast fashion giants like Shein on smaller designers. Platforms like TikTok make it easy for brands to identify what’s trending, what’s being shared and, more importantly, what’s selling.   

Dupes are now in themselves a business model. The art of finding a dupe used to centre more on the joy of discovering that two products have a similar shade or performance.

Now, a near-identical aesthetic seems to be required - right down to the packaging. For some products, you could be forgiven for thinking the copycat was actually the original.

You can't blame beauty fans for being bored with new releases when they often feel like the third, fourth or eighteenth attempt to recreate an already popular formula.  

The beauty industry itself is currently in a state of great flux: almost all of us would agree it feels over-saturated and like we have too many options, yet Forbes reports that the market continues to grow year on year.  

The need for brands to bring something new or original to the table is palpable.

We’ve seen that the inability to keep up innovation or excitement has already impacted brands, with giants such as Becca, Morphe and even Revlon falling upon hard times recently. 

“They’re not doing anything new” is one of the first criticisms we level at a new brand that fails to show something different or original. Even more so when we see yet another celebrity announce their move into the lucrative beauty world.

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For companies trying to keep up with innovation, the booming business of dupes can be detrimental. Brands might invest time and resources into creating a new or unique product, only to have it soon copied and sold at a lower price.

This can make it difficult for those original products to remain competitive in the market. And a flourishing, vibrant beauty scene that does not make.

So while dupes certainly have a deserved place in the skincare and makeup space, 2023 might be the year to rethink how much space we let them take up.

What are your thoughts on dupe culture? Share them with us in the comment section below.

Feature image: TikTok @lauraxbui and @charlottetilbury