'Everyone is going to Thailand, but this island is cheaper, prettier and less crowded.'

Last May, I turned 30 and promptly quit my job to spend the next 12 months travelling on $100 a day each with my husband (you can read more about it here).

I'm currently making my way through South East Asia and have just left a group of islands so good I've been asking myself, "Why is everyone paying more to do this in Thailand with crowds?".

If you're anything like me, The White Lotus is currently all-consuming and you're unable to escape the dream of slipping away to a resort in Thailand… but without the price tag.

Watch: The White Lotus trailer here. Post continues below.

Thailand was once a super affordable travel destination but thanks to recent popularity (for good reason, mind you, Thailand is fabulous) its prices — and, more importantly, crowds — have soared, meaning you're getting much less bang for your buck and much less space on the beach in 2025. 

I'm currently in Cambodia and have just left its southern coastline where the water is clear, the beaches are empty, and the hospitality is next level.

Here's a breakdown of how and where to visit and why you should consider swapping your Thailand plans for a trip to the sandy shores of Cambodia. 

Where am I talking about? 

If you've never heard of Cambodia, you'll find it sandwiched between Thailand and Vietnam in South-East Asia. At its southern tip, Cambodia hugs the Gulf of Thailand and is smattered with tropical islands fringed with white sand, blue water, palm trees, and most importantly affordable resorts and guest houses. And did I already mention the lack of crowds?!

Two of the most popular islands are Koh Rong and its quieter, calmer sister Koh Rong Samloem which has a special place in my heart. But, honestly, they're just the tip of the iceberg. I spent a few days recently on Koh Rong and fell head over heels in love.

Samloem Pier and Long Set Beach, Koh Rong. Image: Supplied.

How do you get to the Cambodian Islands?

You can access both islands with relative ease from the port town of Sihanoukville. If you're arriving directly into Sihanoukville's international airport, just grab a tuk-tuk and head straight to the pier where you can jump on a ferry almost every hour every day of the week. 

If, like me, you're arriving from the country's capital Phnom Penh, you have a few options. We opted for a three-hour mini bus (around $20 per person), but you can also take the train or hire a taxi to get to the port. It's a really simple journey. 

Multiple companies offer short boat rides to Long Set Beach or Kaoh Touch beach, which are the main ports on Koh Rong. These are around 40 minutes long and cost $30.

By port, I mean a basic, teensy tiny jetty that juts out of one of the most beautiful beaches you'll ever see. Over on Koh Rong Samloem, there are two main stops (Saracen Bay or M'Pai Bay), but your accommodation will advise you best on where to hop off as it's a little less developed than Koh Rong. 

You're cruising through islands not far from shore, so it's a pretty low-octane journey. But, do pack travel sickness meds as I have heard it can be a bumpy ride when the weather is rough. On the days we travelled to and from the islands it was calm like a lake and I had the most scenic transfer ever. 

The beautiful beaches of Cambodia. Image: Supplied.

Where to stay.

Depending on what you're chasing, the islands have something for everyone. 

On Koh Rong, I stayed in Long Set beach. It's a long stretch of white sand and clear blue water dotted with hostels and resorts depending on what you fancy. While this area is home to a few backpacker spots, the islands still maintain an easy going, quiet vibe perfect for travellers that are long past 21 and have a modest bedtime.

I'm 30 and my husband and I found this spot had the perfect balance of chill and vibes to be able to effortlessly switch between quiet naps on empty beaches and finding somewhere with plenty of energy for a sunset cocktail and an early night, or, if we felt like it, a big party.

This area also has plenty of restaurants and a general store which is much needed when on an island! If you're craving seclusion, there are plenty of smaller (yet harder to access) villages dotted across the island that are far quieter and more heavy on the peaceful, flop and drop island vibe.

That is, party backpackers can't be bothered to trek it out there. 

Image: supplied.

We only visited Koh Rong Samloem for a few hours as a day trip, but I noticed that the island is much quieter. I would recommend staying around the two main ferry drop-off spots, but again, if you're up for a bumpy tuktuk ride a more isolated resort may just be your cup of tea. 

What to do? 

As for what to do when you've dropped your bags off and your feet are suitably dusted with sand, there are so many options it's really impossible to get bored. 

Diving & Snorkelling.

Koh Rong is home to some pretty incredible diving. I did a dive trip that picks spots based on the weather, so we were able to include a few hours on Koh Rong Samloem as well as time under the water.

The reef here has incredible visibility (even from the boat before you pop on your mask!) and varied marine life. We saw eels, clownfish and huge anemones and lots of really healthy coral reefs free from bleaching.

If you're not into diving, you can do the same trip as a snorkeller and see much of the same sea life thanks to the island's high visibility and relatively shallow reefs. 

Image: supplied.

Boat Trips.

If you're not into diving or snorkelling, but want to see the island's many hidden bays and lesser-visited island neighbours, I can't recommend a boat trip enough. You can book multiple island cruises that will take you around the shores of Koh Rong and neighbouring islands so you can access essentially private beaches without having to hire a scooter or sit through a bumpy tuk-tuk ride across the island. 

Image: supplied.

Scooter hire.

One of my favourite things I did on the island was hire a scooter with my husband and explore basically the whole island in a day. We hired a scooter for just $16US dollars (including filling up a full tank of fuel!).

It was our first time hiring scooters and we were slightly nervous, but given how empty the island is, driving was a total breeze.

Being a relatively undeveloped island, some of the roads were a little worse for wear but nothing a beginner can't handle.

This meant we could access quieter villages, mangroves, and huge stretches of white sand beaches that we had all to ourselves. Really, I don't think we saw a single other person on the beaches that day. And these weren't hidden beaches, they were some of the island's main beaches. 

If you want to steal my scooter itinerary, here's exactly what we did: 

• Coconut Beach: this was a 10-minute ride from Long Set Beach. It's a really quiet flop-and-drop style area on the island which had an empty beach when we visited. 

• Prek Ta Sok Eco Tourism Community: to see the island's unique mangrove system and wild native birds. When we visited we stopped in for a coffee and were greeted with the most beautiful singing by a local Khmer woman working. 

• Sok San Beach: you'll find Sok San just across the island from Long Set, just five minutes from the Eco Tourism Community. When we visited, the beach was completely empty as well for the hour or so we spent here. 

• Preak Svay: you MUST promise me if you do this itinerary you stop by this village tucked behind the beach. We stopped in for lunch at Lily's Riverhouse here and ordered the lak lok. It was the best thing we ate in Cambodia! It's been weeks now since we ate here and my husband and I still talk about it.

  Image: supplied.

Beaches, beaches and more beaches.

Most accommodation on the island comes with absolute beach frontage. So I absolutely spent multiple days swinging in a hammock a few steps from my room alternating between devouring books and floating in the clear blue water. To be honest, we never found a crowded stretch of beach anywhere on Koh Rong. Even at our resort, the sun beds were never completely full. That's right, a place exists on earth where people haven't raced down to the beach at 7am to secure a sun bed with their towel.

Bioluminescent Plankton 

Unfortunately we visited Koh Rong during a full moon, so we didn't get a chance to see the bioluminescent plankton but almost everyone else who has visited the island ever did. Take a stroll along the beach at night or book into a boat tour and you can see the ocean literally sparkling with millions of bioluminescent plankton. We took a few swims at night to try and spot them ourselves, but unfortunately with the full moon it was just too bright. If you visit, do not miss this, I've heard it's absolutely spectacular.

How much does it cost? 

Depending on your budget, you can spend as much or as little on these islands as you want. My husband and I opted for a private bungalow right on the beach and spent $36 each a night. This meant we had hot water, air conditioning, drinkable water delivered daily, and breakfast included.

You can find much cheaper in parts of the island further from the ports, or at hostels if you're up for a shared dorm, or much more expensive depending on your budget.

We had drinks one night at the gorgeous Long Set Resort just down the beach from us which is around $200 a night for their fanciest room. 

Things to know before you go to Cambodia.

Before you visit, keep in mind that there are no ATMs on the island — only exchange desks that charge a significant fee to withdraw cash. Cambodia (at least for foreigners) is quite reliant on cash, so make sure you have enough to last you through your stay.

There's great internet on the island, but much like most of Cambodia, reception can be patchy at times. We used a local sim during our time in Cambodia though and had pretty constant coverage even if the wifi wasn't up and running. 

To be honest, since we left Koh Rong I haven't been able to stop thinking about it. I've found myself Googling Cambodia's other islands and dreaming of upending my travel route to get back there.

So enjoy, and you can thank me later!

Feature image: Supplied.