beauty

'I spent thousands on managing my cystic acne. This is what worked for me.'

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It seems like every teenager these days has a 12-step skincare routine.

Walk into MECCA or Priceline and you'll see them swatching every scrub, serum, cleanser and moisturiser in sight.

While the internet loves to mock so-called "Sephora Kids", I can relate. Because as a teen, that was me.

At 11 years old, I started getting acne. And it wasn't just the occasional whitehead. Every weekend, I'd drag my mum to MECCA, Sephora, or Chemist Warehouse, desperate to find something that would fix my skin.

Like many tweens, I was reassured that acne was "just hormones" and that it would go away as long as I didn't pick at it.

Except...it didn't.

Watch: How your skin issues could be related to your gut. Post continues after video.


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By the time I turned 13, my face was covered in acne. And not just breakouts. I'm talking deep, angry cysts buried under the skin that were painful to touch.

It wasn't just physically painful. It destroyed my self-confidence, especially because I wasn't allowed to wear makeup to school to cover it up.

I tried everything.

Clay masks? Didn't work.

Celebrity skincare ranges? Didn't work.

Microneedling and facials? Didn't work.

Cutting out dairy, sugar, gluten or anything that tasted good? Also didn't work.

Eventually, I saw a doctor who prescribed antibiotics and later put me on Accutane, a strong medication that shrinks the oil glands in your pores. It worked briefly, but once I stopped, my acne came back even worse.

Image of Acne on Face.Image: Supplied.

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Now, in my 20s, my skin has finally cleared up.

It didn't happen overnight, and I still wake up with the occasional pimple, but it's nowhere near as bad as it once was.

Here's everything I tried, what didn't work, and what finally did.

What causes acne?

According to the Australasian College of Dermatologists, acne occurs when the hair follicle and oil gland become clogged. It can be caused by:

  • Excess sebum (oil) production

  • Acne-causing bacteria

  • Inflammation

  • Build-up of dead skin cells

Types of acne.

Not all acne is created equal. Common types include:

  • Whiteheads: Small white bumps under the skin

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  • Blackheads: Open clogged pores that appear dark

  • Nodules: Large, painful bumps deep under the skin (can cause scarring)

  • Cysts: Large fluid-filled lumps under the skin (likely to cause scarring)

Speak to a professional. Seriously.

If I could give one piece of advice to my younger self, it would be: go to a doctor sooner.

There are so many underlying medical issues that can contribute to acne (like PCOS, for example). Oftentimes, these conditions are something that no cleanser or serum will fix.

Your GP can also refer you to a dermatologist who can prescribe targeted treatments, like antibiotics, topical retinoids, or oral medications like Accutane.

What didn't work for my acne.

Celebrity skincare and influencer hype.

Like so many insecure teenagers, I fell for the marketing. If I just bought every product from Hailey Bieber's skincare tutorial, my skin would magically clear, right? Wrong.

While my friends spent their Macca's paychecks on clothes and concert tickets, I spent mine on skincare that never worked.

From celebrity brands to 'acne starter kits,' I wasted thousands of dollars.

The problem? Many of these products contain comedogenic ingredients (pore clogging), harsh actives that strip the skin and fragrances and essential oils that irritate acne-prone skin.

What did work for my acne.

Keeping it simple.

The "KISS" principle really does apply. Keep It Super Simple.

All you really need is:

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  1. A cleanser.

  1. A treatment product with active ingredients.

  1. A non-comedogenic moisturiser.

  1. An SPF 50+.

Hero ingredients for acne-prone skin.

The Australasian College of Dermatologists recommends looking for products with:

  • Benzoyl Peroxide: Kills acne-causing bacteria — this would be the Glen 20 of the skincare world. You'll usually find it in cleansers or ointments. Try: Benzac AC Gel 2.5%, $26.99.

  • Salicylic Acid: A chemical exfoliant that penetrates pores clearing dead skin cells and oil build up. Like a drain cleaner for your face. You'll usually find it in cleansers, serums or moisturisers. Try: The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, $10.70.

  • Glycolic Acid: A surface exfoliant for dead skin cell build-up, Glycolic Acid is more like a surface cleaner. You'll usually find it in cleansers, serums or moisturisers. Try: The Inkey List Glycolic Toner, $26.

  • Azelaic Acid: Anti-bacterial, pore-unblocking and anti-inflammatory, this is your multipurpose spray and wipe. You'll usually find it in serums or moisturisers. Try: Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster, $62.

The Royal Australian College of General Practitioners (RACGP) also recommends topical retinoids (my personal favourite). These increase cell turnover, helping to prevent clogged pores.

Important: Don't use all these ingredients together as this could cause irritation and purging. Instead, use this list as a guide for what products to look for — and speak to a dermatologist for guidance.

In fact, I think that using too many active ingredients made my acne worse.

Picking one product with an active ingredient, patch testing and introducing it gradually worked wonders. More is not more when it comes to skincare!

My current skincare routine.

Using this list of hero products, I've created a simple skincare routine that I've used consistently for over two years — and repurchased every product more than once (a first for me).

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Image of skincare products. Image: Supplied.

Morning.

  • Cleanser: None. I've found morning cleansing driedsmy skin out and makes my skin produce more oil during the day, worsening my acne.

  • Treatment: Dermalogica Age Bright Clearing Serum. This serum, although more on the pricey side, truly works wonders. Containing niacinamide and salicylic acid, it works to unclog pores and control oiliness during the day.

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Night.

  • Treatment: The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane. If I could recommend one product only, this would be it. The retinol effectively boosts skin cell turnover, while squalane keeps the skin hydrated and balanced. Not only has it helped prevent the buildup of dead skin cells that lead to acne, but it's also made a noticeable difference in reducing my acne scars and hyperpigmentation. It's truly been a game-changer for my skin.

  • Moisturiser: I use the same INNISFREE moisturiser as in the morning.

Image of woman's cheek.Image: Supplied.

Other habits that helped my acne.

Patience: Finding a skincare routine takes TIME. Remember, the skin has a 28-day cell turnover cycle, meaning most products will take a few weeks, and even a few months, to see results. So be patient and don't expect to see results overnight!

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Silk pillowcase & bonnet: According to the American Academy of Dermatology Association, natural oils, bacteria and products in your hair can contribute to acne breakouts. 

Using a silk bonnet so that my hair is off my face when I sleep has not only stopped this, but has also improved my hair health. 

Non-comedogenic makeup: Before I purchase new skincare or makeup, I now check the product for pore-clogging ingredients using this ingredient checker. If it has heaps of comedogenic ingredients, I won't buy it and will find an alternative!

Lifestyle: More sleep, less stress, lots of water. It's not sexy, but it works!

Final thoughts.

I'm not saying this exact routine will work for everyone, but I am saying: see your doctor early, stop wasting money on celebrity-endorsed skincare, simplify your routine, and stick with it.Acne is frustrating. It's emotional. It's exhausting. But it can be managed — and more importantly, you're not alone.From someone who's been there, desperate, discouraged, and now clear-skinned, I promise: it gets better.

Feature Image: Supplied.

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