travel

'Everyone visits Paris in summer. The most magical season is cheaper with fewer tourists.'

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Every June/July, I am racked with jealousy.

My little green-eyed monster is out to steal every ounce of my gratitude because my entire feed is filled with pictures of friends, family and hundreds of people I don't know — and never will — swanning around Europe having the time of their lives.

But when it comes to Paris, turns out I wasn't missing as much as I thought I was.

Thanks to the logistical magic of Qantas, Air France, and Atout France (France Tourism), I got a magical 48 hours in the City of Lights this November. And let me tell you, if like me, you thought the warmer months were the best time to visit, we were completely wrong.

Paris in the cooler months? It's actual heaven.

Watch: That trip you did with 40 other people on a massive tour bus where everyone drank too much is very much out, and anew type of travel is in. Post cotninues after video.


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Let's be clear: Paris carries a premium price tag no matter the season. But while Qantas doesn't reduce their direct Perth to Paris fares off-peak, the return on investment skyrockets in winter.

Why? Firstly, your points go further — there's a far greater likelihood of snagging a reward seat or even an upgrade to Premium Economy or Business Class, which is a total cherry on top.

Secondly, with fewer travellers, there's less chance of being crammed in the middle seat. Our flight had several bare economy rows, meaning people could lie down flat for the entire 17-hour journey — almost like flying business

The entire city experience that followed was just as expansive and pleasant, minus the intense summer heat, the time-wasting queues and the shoulder-jostling tourists.

My 48 hours in Paris demanded a tight itinerary, but it paid off.

We maximised every second of our time on the ground with the ultimate snapshot of the city of lights from a different perspective. Rather than the typical visit to the Louvre, climbing the Eiffel Tower, and posing in front of L'Arc de Triomphe — although I'll admit I did do the latter when given the chance — we experienced some of the unsung attractions that gave us a deeper insight into the culture of the French.

2-days-paris-itineraryHôtel de la Marine.

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We took in a tour of the 18th century bourgeois Hôtel de la Marine, topped off with a 4-hour cooking class at Le Cordon Bleu, home of homechef Julia Childs, where we made — then ate — foie gras with a head chef who spoke exclusively in French and required a translator.

2-days-paris-itineraryThe 4-hour cooking class at Le Cordon Bleu. Image: Supplied.

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All this was rounded out by a stint of shopping in vintage and designer heaven: the very trendy Le Marais.

When your travel window is only 48 hours and you have zero tolerance for sharing the experience with fifteen million other annual visitors, the real, soul-stirring magic of Paris — the one where you can practically float to your 7am croissant — is truly an off-season privilege.

The only way to experience the city without feeling like everyone else got the memo but you is in November and December.

Here are three of the many things that are better about Paris in the cooler months:

The weather.

Don't get me wrong. I love the heat and there's nothing quite like the magic of a European summer.

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But when it's cold or drizzly outside, hopping between the perfectly heated, cozy boutiques is a welcome retreat, turning shopping, cafe-dwelling and site seeing into a luxurious, rather than sweaty, activity.

2-days-paris-itineraryRainy streets of Paris, France. Image: Supplied.

I had been warned that it would be cold and raining, but while yes, the temperature was on the cooler side — I needed a jumper and a coat for 15-18° maximum temperature and there was a little drizzle occasionally — the weather was rather mild and quite pleasant for all the walking and corner-café people watching.

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2-days-paris-itineraryI had to put this on because of the weather! Image: Supplied.

But have you ever noticed how much more stylish people look when the temperatures drop? Now imagine Parisians dressed in the most stylish possible outfits. It was like my Pinterest boards coming to life — and the bonus is because there are no tourists. You know that the people you're watching are actually French.

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No crowds.

The real secret to unlocking Paris is the glorious, undeniable absence of the crowd. Seriously, the sheer lack of people dramatically cuts down on every potential source of frustration. 

The airport was practically empty and security, customs and baggage collection took just 10 minutes each. Our flights were less crammed, transfers were quicker and while traffic — like any capital city — is not that great no matter the time of year, it's so much more pleasant walking around when you're not sweating profusely and shoulder barging to get through the masses. 

No crowds = all the opportunities to take the perfect Instagram pic. Image: Supplied.

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We didn't have to queue for a single necessity, be it a morning croissant or the subway entrance. No waiting for a table at every corner café; we even walked into a bistro for steak frites mere minutes after making a reservation on a whim.

It was as if we had bypassed the circus and slipped effortlessly into the enviable routine of normal Parisian life, just going about its regular, fuss-free business.

The shopping.

As I've stressed, the streets, especially in popular districts like Le Marais, are easier to navigate without the crowds. You don't have to jostle for space in small vintage boutiques or line up for the changing rooms. But beyond that, the sheer vibe of everyday Parisians going about their business is intoxicating.

The cafes, the shops, the people watching is so inspiring I could burst with how energised and infused I felt with culture, fashion and coolness.

From truly exceptional vintage finds to coveted boutiques (like the Frankie Shop concept store) and even tourist beacons like Merci, they have it all and more, and without the suffocating crowds, the entire experience is heaven.

My only regret is not having enough time to properly shop. But I did pick up a gorgeous vintage silk scarf reminiscent of Versace (I know, wrong country) and a couple of French perfumes which take me back with every spray. And all the more reason to return.

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The best bits of Paris in winter.

Morning croissant hunting.

It was chilly but not too cold. I was perfectly warm enough in my activewear with a puffer jacket and a light Uniqlo heat tech long sleeved top — that top was my saving grace. And munching said croissant in the peaceful stillness of the early morning, without the hustle and bustle that summer crowds bring.

2-days-paris-itineraryCroissant hunting in the morning is a MUST when you're in Paris. Image: Supplied.

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The location.

We stayed at Le Belmont which was a 10 minute walk from L'Arc De Triomphe, so very centrally located. Although it was in such a busy part of the city, it was quiet — but I'd imagine it would be much more lively in summer.

All of this said, I'd love to return and stay somewhere like Saint Germain — next November perhaps!

2-days-paris-itineraryHotel Le Belmont. Image: Supplied.

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Bateaux Parisiens.

This was the most "touristy" thing we did: a 3-course meal aboard a cruise on The Seine taking in all the sights and landmarks of Paris in all its nighttime glory. It was stunning.

The video and photos I got of the Eiffel Tower will remain in my favourites album forever — and my teenager was very impressed, which is rare so that's something.

2-days-paris-itineraryThe Eiffel Tower. Image: Supplied.

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The food.

So so so many options — you practically can't go wrong.

The croissants are everything and more, and every single bite of every sophisticated little pastry or plate just feels so utterly effortless and chic. My only regret: never securing that perfect baguette I was hankering for (yet another undeniable reason to return).

A crucial piece of advice: do your research, follow your social media trail, and don't settle for 'okay' — we were on limited time so had little time to research our first meal, so we ended up at L'Aubrac for an affordable steak frites.

And look, while the experience was a 10/10 — the frites were great, the glass of red exceptional, and I was, after all, in Paris! — the steak itself wasn't the life-changing moment I'd hoped for; in fact I'm sure I've had better at Hubert or Bistro Lou Lou in Sydney (which I highly recommend).

The people-watching fashion inspo.

Watching true Parisians go about their day just being très, très chic — without the dilution that hordes of tourists bring.

So take it from me, if you want to experience the soul of Paris, skip the summer sun and pack a little warmer — it's worth it.

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Feature image: Supplied.

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